M/C change without bleeding at the wheels? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-17-2008, 03:46 PM   #11
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I am going to make a few comments here... No one take it the wrong way...

First, you do not have to bleed at the wheels when you replace the master cylinder... Same goes for the ABS Pump, you don't need to bleed it for a master cylinder replacement.. You can replace the master cylinder( once it has been very well bench bled ) and simply bleed at the lines for the master cylinder.. The car will stop with no issue..

But it is recommended that you bleed the brakes all the way around... This should be done periodically anyhow...

I did not bleed at the wheels when I replaced my ABS pump, But I had to bleed at both the Pump and the Master cylinder.... Next time I do the brakes on the 91 LE( They are close ) it will get a full bleed as it will get new wheel cylinders.. The 95 will get a full bleed as well..

The Master Cylinder can be replaced without bleeding at the wheels... But it is recommended that you bleed the system as it has been opened and will most likely benefit from fresh fluid to begin with..

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Old 03-17-2008, 06:12 PM   #12
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When I stripped my rust-free chassis, I removed all the brake lines.. I was surprised to see how clean everything was, no junk in the lines.. But, I have no idea when it was last serviced.. When I dismantled the rusted chassis, all kinds of nastiness came out of the brake system.. So.. while I have changed many master cyls the TROYPORT way, I always try to get back to the system and bleed it completely.. When doing my rebuild, I put everything back together with new calipers and wheel cyls, then opened up the brake lines and went about other tasks untill all the bleeders started to drip. Then I pulled out my trusty mityvac hand pump and sucked more fluid through, just to make sure there was nothing undesireable left in the system anywhere.. I then attached my large welch vacuum pump (the big bastard that I use on HVAC work, weighs about 100 pounds) and metered-up about 15 inches of vacuum to the booster, to simulate engine vacuum, had rock hard brakes, ready to go..
You should always flush the brake system - but the TROYPORT method will get you on the road in a pinch, but do it very carefully. It'* just my 2 cents afterall. Mike
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:59 PM   #13
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If it has been 15 years, you will want to take a close look at any flexible hoses used in the system. They should be replaced if starting to show deep cracks. At that age, and with crummy old fluid, the insides of the hoses may have begun to delaminate, even if the outside layer looks okay. When they come apart internally, often the calipers will not fully release, causing lots of troubles.
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:41 PM   #14
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jr'* momma didnt raise no fool
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:07 AM   #15
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I will take a good look at the flex lines while I've got wheels off. Thanks for that idea. I don't believe I have anything sticking at this point, or refusing to flow back to the M/C, but I will take a peek and see how they look anyway.

I'm honestly not sure how old anything is on this car. I've owned it for about 6 months, and never actually met the previous owner. Long story. Needless to say, I have no records at all from it.

So yeah. I'll do my very best to bleed the whole thing out, and just use the other method(*) if necessary.

Thanks again all.

Well, one more thing maybe. I don't have parts yet. Anything I need to avoid or seek out as far as brands, etc., in a reman M/C? I see that Napa has one for either $36 or $54, apparently depending on the length. Doesn't mention a brand though. I don't guess it really matters much, but if anyone has had any horror stories with a particular brand of reman brake parts, that would be good to know now, rather than later.
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:28 AM   #16
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Measure yours first. It'* either 8" or 10".

Surprisingly, both my cars use different lengths.
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Old 03-18-2008, 01:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Measure yours first. It'* either 8" or 10".

Surprisingly, both my cars use different lengths.
Yeah, I noticed that there are different lengths on the Napa site. Quite the price difference, too. Can't imagine why.

Mine measures 6 7/8" from booster to the end. That'* closer to the 6.5" vs. the 8" that Napa offers. Ah, good. It'* the cheaper one.
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:26 PM   #18
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If you take into account the distance taken up as the MC enters the recess in the booster, and the thickness of the mounting flange, you have an 8" master.
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:47 PM   #19
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Well, that was factoring in the mounting flange, but not anything poking inside of the booster. I guess that a length measurement is rather dependent on what they expect me to actually measure.

So with that in mind, and mine measuring 6 7/8" from the face of the booster to the tip of the M/C, is it going to be the shorter of the two (6.5" according to Napa), or the longer (8" according to Napa)? I suppose I could actually go to a parts store and have them set a couple on the counter for me, but this couch is rather comfy... I'll probably end up getting one ordered through my brother, so I want to make sure we get the right one.

The current unit does have a GM barcode sticker on the line side, so it'* not some odd aftermarket freak.
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