Loss of power when Braking - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-12-2006, 02:51 PM   #21
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Default Re: UPDATE.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtluttrell
OK, so I'm driving home tonight and I here this "click-click" from the passenger side dash area. I heard this maybe ten times in thirty minutes. Two of the times, at the same time as the "click-click" my cd player cuts off and I get the infamous "ding-ding-ding". That'* all that happened and it was over. This happened twice in thiry minutes.
So, what'* the "click-click" and is it related to my problem
If it is related......is it a symptom or the problem?
When there'* a power shortage or what ever, the power all gets pulled and goes to the most important system, which is the running systems like Fuel, Ign, so on.


When the power'* pulled from the lil components of the cars the relays can't stay engaged and click off. That'* from my own experiences.
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:40 AM   #22
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Had my alternator tested today at the local O'Reilly'* auto parts store.
The guy said it was fine. How much faith can I put in this test?
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Old 04-15-2006, 01:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtluttrell
Had my alternator tested today at the local O'Reilly'* auto parts store.
The guy said it was fine. How much faith can I put in this test?
I had similar symptoms to you, except my car NEVER died or stalled.

As I would brake, sometimes my lights would dim and the volt meter would take a dive. The whole time I was on the brakes it would hold that condition. Still on the brakes I could put it in park, no change...but as soon as I let off the brakes all was normal again.

I went to my Advance and they put the thing on my alternator and tested it. Tested out fine. Three weeks later my alternator stopped putting out normal juice, and my volt meter held steady around 10 volts.

Replaced alternator...problem pretty much went away, but it still happens on a very rare occasion.
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Old 04-15-2006, 02:46 AM   #24
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Did you get the battery tested to. My car did similar thing when I first got it. The battery was really messed up. Acutal this happen on the auction lot. Where it would start from the battery(very slow),but as soon as you draw any load you would see the volt meter drop to about 9v then motor would cough and whiz I would turn the load off and then it would be fine. Yes pushing on the brakes would do. On my car the altentor was fine just the battery was diwing. At rest(key in the off postion it had voltage of 9 when running and no load ran between 12-13.4) Here my question does it do anything weird at night you should be draw more of load then. Try turn every thing on the car like blowers,defroster,lights,radio and leave the car at idle for about 10 -15 min. IF the battery or alt is weak it should come out then. My guess you have short somewhere in the braking system. I not sure is their fuse for just the brake lamps I can't seem to remeber If does try remove it see if it makes any better.
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:04 PM   #25
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Default neutral safety/start switch

Last night , when my car stalled, I threw it in neutral, went to start it, and nothing. I Put it in park and it cranked right up. So, this is probably a bad neutral start switch. My question is..........is this related to my problem, the cause of my problem, or just another unfortunate addition to my ever growing list of things to fix?
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Old 06-04-2006, 03:20 AM   #26
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That whole problem with dimming lights and things when you hit brakes, I've had it on every Pontiac I've owned. (1 Ventura, 2 Grand Prix, and 2 Bonnevilles.) It has always been any of three things, often 2 at the same time, so check all of them:
(1) Battery. Easy to get tested, Easy to buy a new one and replace.
(2) Alternator. Relatively easy to get tested, relatively easy to buy a new one and replace.
(3) Battery Cables. Almost always the Positive one (but check both positive and negative), corroded inside the otherwise-normal-looking insulating jacket. Corroded throughout its length. More difficult to test, need to order factory cable from a dealer or GMpartsdirect.com, anywhere from easy to total pain in the @$$ to replace.

That may or may not be the cause of your problem, but it has always been the cause of mine.
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Old 06-04-2006, 01:13 PM   #27
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Went through the same symptoms last month. I changed the alternator which didn't help. I had a loose park/neutral switch and a loose feed wire coming into the relay center.
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Old 06-04-2006, 04:00 PM   #28
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Quote:
Went through the same symptoms last month. I changed the alternator which didn't help. I had a loose park/neutral switch and a loose feed wire coming into the relay center
Are you saying that the loose park/neutral switch and loose feed wire were causing it to stall like mine? And that this is possibly the cause of my problem?
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Old 06-04-2006, 04:16 PM   #29
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Your symptoms sound eerily familiar to mine. My post was in the Electrical forum because everything electrical would just cut out; it was worse when braking but also occurred while doing 65 on the highway.

I wish I could be more specific about the loose wire, but it was repaired at the dealership(about $50). ( I had a funeral that weekend and no more time to tinker with the car.)
I haven't had any trouble with my car since.
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Old 06-04-2006, 04:22 PM   #30
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thanks boog-- I'll check into this switch.
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