Loss of power under load - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-23-2007, 02:38 AM   #11
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not that it helps the topic any, but it'* bad for the engine to go full throttle when it'* cold, so you shouldn't do that often
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Old 02-23-2007, 02:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklikesmilk
not that it helps the topic any, but it'* bad for the engine to go full throttle when it'* cold, so you shouldn't do that often
perhaps you could explain why. Transmission is a hydraulic system and I can understand why you should wait until its at normal operating temperature
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklikesmilk
not that it helps the topic any, but it'* bad for the engine to go full throttle when it'* cold, so you shouldn't do that often
perhaps you could explain why. Transmission is a hydraulic system and I can understand why you should wait until its at normal operating temperature
For the castings and bearings to fully heat and expand and get the tolerances near the low end of the spectrum.
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklikesmilk
not that it helps the topic any, but it'* bad for the engine to go full throttle when it'* cold, so you shouldn't do that often
perhaps you could explain why. Transmission is a hydraulic system and I can understand why you should wait until its at normal operating temperature
For the castings and bearings to fully heat and expand and get the tolerances near the low end of the spectrum.
how long are we talking....till the t-stat kicks in? I never go WOT until 180* but if the car has been driving for 5 minutes...I'd imagine everything is up to temp.
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:14 AM   #15
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maybe not until the t-stat pops open, but i at least wait till the temp. gauge on the dash moves some, to show that it'* not still cold from sitting outside in wisconsin.
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:56 AM   #16
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Hans, Nick and Dame... Please start another thread for your off topic conversation.

2abbit.. the fuel pressure can be declining as the pump warms up. This is why it is necessary to check the pressure. No pressure means no fuel. Diesel or gasoline, no fuel is no fuel. However we are only speculating and need to test to find the actual cause of the problem.
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Old 02-25-2007, 05:01 AM   #17
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OK, well get this, now the stupid car is running ok...on my last post i wasnt as clear as i should have been. I stated that when i gave my car WOT it lagged out, didnt die just didnt want to gain or loose RPM. What I left out earlier in my post is that i let the exhaust get bad. What I mean by bad is slowly but surely the exhaust more specifacally the CAT started coming apart. I still ran the car(LOUDLY) but none the less ran it. When I finally took the car to the exhaust shop, the guy there told me that the cat can effect all sorts of stuff with this car. When i say i let it get bad i mean i ran the car for about 3-4 months with practically no exhaust system that was working. The pipe broke off on the front part of the cat. SO i guess what i am wondering is if that long period of time could affect the computer on the car. This is a weird problem and have been to more than one forum., and 3 dealership service calls only to have no one really seem to have this problem.I hope u guys can help me cuz this forum seems to be the most help to people out there
Thanx guys
Nick
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:01 AM   #18
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So as I understand the situation:

1. You have a problem with the car lagging at full throttle (WOT) before you had the new cat put on. And with the new cat on the car, the problem is still there.

2. It runs good when the motor is cold, however, once warmed up, the lagging starts

3. Vacuum lines have no fluid

4. Plugs and wires are new

To me, it sounds like a spark issue; specifically the coil packs. I would get them checked and see what the omage is on the primary and secondary windings are. The link is in Tech Info.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:06 AM   #19
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Here is the link on how to check the coil packs:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=33
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:25 AM   #20
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In addition to the coil pack test, I'd like you to check your fuel pressure cold, and then again when warm.
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