Looking for Instructions: Replace Blower Motor 94SSE
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Posts like a V-Tak
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Looking for Instructions: Replace Blower Motor 94SSE
I need to replace my blower motor but I need some instructions on how to do it. I would love some pics but simple instructions will suffice. Thx!
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
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From: Enfield, CT
Reach in and remove the bracket that holds the O2 connector and fuel line clip. It comes off with 2 13mm nuts. The blower motor is then very accessible. I think it has about 6 7mm bolts holding it in and then the one connector. Wiggle and turn it to get it out..
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Your instructions make the process seem very simple and I am sure it is.
Are there any pics out there just to give me an idea of what I am working with?
Do I need to make sure not to disconnect certain wires or hoses, is there a risk of shorting out something?
Thx
Are there any pics out there just to give me an idea of what I am working with?
Do I need to make sure not to disconnect certain wires or hoses, is there a risk of shorting out something?
Thx
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 26
From: Enfield, CT
Oh..I forgot..remove the strut bar..4 13mm nuts.
Unless you touch the power connector on the back of the alternator..there'* nothing nearby to worry about if the car isn't running.
I would have taken pictures when I did mine..but it was done before the first picture happened.
Unless you touch the power connector on the back of the alternator..there'* nothing nearby to worry about if the car isn't running.
I would have taken pictures when I did mine..but it was done before the first picture happened.
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,066
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From: Ames, Iowa
Did a search for "blower motor" Found this under a thread titled: "blower motor replacement":
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Yeah, it was a really easy job. To make this post useful for people searching for the r&r method....
Check for bad motor by unplugging connector on motor and setting controls for high speed fan
connect test light across terminals to see if power is getting to the motor
if power is getting to motor, and motor is not working properly (e.g., requires whacking to get it to work), its almost certainly bad. so....
remove strut brace (13 mm x 4 nuts or bolts)
remove engine cover (remove oil fill tube front and unsnap rear)
unclip O2 sensor connector and fuel lines connector from rear bracket (needlenose pliers)
remove rear bracket from rear cylinder head (13 mm x 2 nuts)
remove rubber cooling tube (heat with hair dryer if cold to prevent cracking)
remove bolts attaching motor (7 mm x 5)
remove insulating cover from motor (if your car has one)
gently move fuel lines out of the way and pull motor up and out
carefully remove rubber gasket from old motor; install on new motor
remove foam gasket from electrical connector, install on new motor
reverse to install; adding dielectric grease to electical connector
enjoy hot air if winter or cold air if summer
BTW, following the factory service manual procedure to test for a bad blower motor resulted in a waste of about two hours time. Why start by backprobing the blower relay (which is pretty much inaccessible!) when you can just test for power at the motor connector?
Check for bad motor by unplugging connector on motor and setting controls for high speed fan
connect test light across terminals to see if power is getting to the motor
if power is getting to motor, and motor is not working properly (e.g., requires whacking to get it to work), its almost certainly bad. so....
remove strut brace (13 mm x 4 nuts or bolts)
remove engine cover (remove oil fill tube front and unsnap rear)
unclip O2 sensor connector and fuel lines connector from rear bracket (needlenose pliers)
remove rear bracket from rear cylinder head (13 mm x 2 nuts)
remove rubber cooling tube (heat with hair dryer if cold to prevent cracking)
remove bolts attaching motor (7 mm x 5)
remove insulating cover from motor (if your car has one)
gently move fuel lines out of the way and pull motor up and out
carefully remove rubber gasket from old motor; install on new motor
remove foam gasket from electrical connector, install on new motor
reverse to install; adding dielectric grease to electical connector
enjoy hot air if winter or cold air if summer
BTW, following the factory service manual procedure to test for a bad blower motor resulted in a waste of about two hours time. Why start by backprobing the blower relay (which is pretty much inaccessible!) when you can just test for power at the motor connector?
RIP
True Car Nut
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 4
From: Grand Rapids, Mi
The only caveat that I would have is when you're done, to check the vacuum fitting that goes into the firewall next to the master cylinder booster. If you're sort of clumsy, like me...you may end up knocking that loose.
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