Interesting.....I'm changing my oil today if I ever get off this damn PC...hahaha. I'll have to give that a shot.

I'm starting to develop a slight tick in the 99. It'* nothing major, but still runs like a top. 99K.

so it has to be done with fresh oil? And not the last leg of the oil change with the tranny fluid trick?

My ex-brother-in-law was a mechanic in the Marines, and ran a service shop on the side. Any time he changed his oil, he'd also replace one of the quarts of oil with a quart of transmision fluid. He'd run it that way all the time, not just for a few hundred miles.

fresh oil

you actually used truck oil?

from what i understand about oil, thicker oil is ok, so long as it meets the same api rating, although using thicker oil may make it harder to start ur vehicle

I used to work with a guy who was a chemist for Shell Oil Co. He maintained that Rotella-T (15W-40 "truck" oil) has the best additive package in the industry. I like to use this oil in my cars with over 100k. I believe that heavier oils provide the best protection for worn engines and for engines used in hot, hard service. I have never had trouble starting a car with 15W-40 in the winter. I'm sure I pay a price of a couple of miles per gallon, but I'm willing to trade that any day for better engine protection.

ok running thinner oil will free up some power, while running thicker oil will decrease the risk of damage in the case of overheating (this is because thicker oils break down at higher temps). also for oils also rated for compression ignitions have a more powerful set of additives. something else ive heard is that synthetic oil will also free up some power

I switched to synthetic in my 97 se and you can tell the difference in power cold starting and economy...no ticks at 117,000.....