Inner Tie Rod Ends R&R: how tough is it? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 11-02-2009, 05:06 PM   #1
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Default Inner Tie Rod Ends R&R: how tough is it?

I know I need to R&R at least one of my inner tie rods, but looking at the FSM, looks like I have to drop the engine support frame a bit and remove the rack to do the job. I'm not sure I'm up to tackling that, on my back in my (often muddy) driveway, but wondered if there is an easier way to replace them?
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:42 PM   #2
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If there is, billboost will know it. If he don't show up soon, send him a private message.
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:46 PM   #3
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On my 93 SSEi, there is a tool that you need to buy or rent, but there is no engine dropping or any of that.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:39 AM   #4
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There is a tool. Dan in your FSM does it say drop the cradle or use the tool? TMK it'* a use tool only procedure. And you want the tool, there'* really no other way from my understanding.

Just make sure it'* the inner tie rod and not the rack. I recently thought there might be an inner issue on a car I have and it ended up seeming to be play in both. This led to the diagnosis of the rack being bad.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:00 AM   #5
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I'll take a look when I have some time.
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
I'll take a look when I have some time.
Thanks, Dan. I'll be watching for whatever you find.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:03 PM   #7
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This is what I found.

Quote:


To remove the rack and pinion boot and the breather tube; refer to Rack and Pinion Boot and Breather Tube Replacement - Off Vehicle .
Remove the shock dampener (2) from the inner tie rod assembly (5).
Slide the shock dampener (2) back on the rack (1).
Remove the inner tie rod assembly (5) from the rack assembly (1) as follows:
Place a wrench on flats of rack assembly (3).
Place another wrench on the flats of the inner tie rod housing (4).
Rotate the inner tie rod housing (4) counterclockwise until the inner tie rod (5) separates from the rack (1).
Assembly Procedure




Slide the shock dampener (2) forward onto the rack (1).
Attach the inner tie rod (6) on the rack (1) as follows:
Place a wrench on the flats of the rack assembly (3).
Place a torque wrench (5) on the flats of the inner tie rod housing (4).

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Tighten
Inner tie rod to 100 Nm (74 lb ft).





Place the inner tie rod assembly (2) in a vise.
Stake both sides of the inner tie rod assembly to the flats on the rack (1).



Insert a 0.25 mm gauge (1) between the rack (2) and the inner tie rod housing (3) in order to check both stakes. The feeler gauge (1) must not pass between the rack and the housing stake.



Slide the shock dampener (2) over the inner tie rod housing (3) until the front lip of the shock dampener (2) bottoms against the inner tie rod housing (3).
To assemble the rack and pinion boot and the breather tube; refer to Rack and Pinion Boot and Breather Tube Replacement - Off Vehicle .
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:47 AM   #8
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Thanks, that looks like mine. I have to pull the rack out of the vehicle to service it. I'll probably try to let it go a bit longer and see if I have a strut tower bearing issue as well. Something is causing my wheels to lurch noticeably out of line on sweeping turns and when throttle is applied strongly vs an easy cruise speed. Too much of a displacement, I think, for just a tie-rod issue.
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:25 AM   #9
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Could you have hurt the diff?
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:44 AM   #10
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Make sure the steer rack is not leaking when you take it out. I would pull the bellows on the other side of the side you are replacing when it it removed. If it'* leaking at all I would just replace the rack.
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