1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

i think the car is surging but not sure

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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:03 PM
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ok lets see if i can explain this to you. my boost gauge stars at -70 and goes to +70. the lines are in 1/8 increments so there are 8 marks. the red is by the +70 which would start at we will say 15/16 but the boost WOT only goes to 5/8
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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OK, got it. Either his actuator is damaged or disconnected. Rev the engine, is the lever moving? If not, check it for motion by hand like the write says. Also check the BCS. Once that is fixed you will be thrown back in to your seat.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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You may still need a tune up (plugs, wires, etc.) but you need to fix the supercharger issue first. You won't believe how much difference this will make to the car'* performance.

Like Dan said, its either the boost control solenoid (BCS) or the boost control actuator (BCA).

Please add your year and trim of your vehicle to your signature line. That way when you start asking questions in other areas of the forum, we all have a better idea on how to assist you. Click on "Quick Links" above, go down to "User Control Panel" and then click on "Edit your Signature" It'* pretty straight forward from there.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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1996 SSEI, trim not sure but the damn car has EVERYTHING, ok i went out and rev. the motor and the needle moved up to +17.5 but the RPM'* wont go ablove 3500RPM, then i let it idle and pulled off the vac. line form the BCA and the actuator dropped it didnt move up and down or was i to move it up and down with my finger
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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i must say THANKS to every one for all the help and the pics are great
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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Remove the vac line so the actuator goes down, plug any open vac lines so you don't have a vacuum leak, and take the car for a short drive. Give it one WOT shot, and tell us what the boost gage goes too.

After that, put the vac lines back where they were. You don't want to drive in this test mode more than a quick ride with one WOT shot.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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ok i done as 2kg40 told me to do the boost again went to +17.5 but when i put the vac line back on i noticed that i am missing a vac line from the BCS there is one in the front and 2 in the back and i missing the 1 on the back top
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mansopoor
ok i done as 2kg40 told me to do the boost again went to +17.5 but when i put the vac line back on i noticed that i am missing a vac line from the BCS there is one in the front and 2 in the back and i missing the 1 on the back top
No, that just an open port. There should be a small foam piece on there that stops crap from getting sucked in to the actuator.

Was the boost control actuator arm fully extended when you took it for a drive?
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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yes it was. i see from some one of your past post you have a canadian car would you be able to tell me if yours reads +17.5 WOT
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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With the engine running, disconnect the vac hose going from the BCS to the BCA and observe if the actuator arm extends all the way out to a hard stop against metal. Put the hose back on and watch it go back up. Repeat several times to make sure the arm extends and retracts every time you do this. When the arm is retracted (and the rod it is attached to at the throttle body is vertical) you have no boost. When the arm is extended (and the rod it is attached to is horizontal) you have full boost.

When you took if for a ride was the arm fully extended?
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