1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

I got problems. Please Help!!!

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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 02:34 AM
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I am curious to know the mileage of your 98.
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:48 AM
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FYI compression problems are rarely an issue with our cars. Coolant (UIM) leaks are common. And very destructive.
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 07:56 PM
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ok everyone. my internet messing up andi havent been able to respond. this weekend me and my buddy from the dealership did both of the gaskets, elbow,valve cover gaskets and changed the oil. i went ahead and did it because the smoking from under the hood from the oil and coolant wuz unbearable. but im able to say now that all residue has burned off.
i also have better news.since the new gaskets, now the car runs wonderful with no misfire when engine is cold. but once its up to operating temp, it misfires again and the exhaust pops.
now what i have observed is the vaccuum on the throttle body that feeds the fuel pressure regulator and something else has a terrible crack in it. it already had the crack but after we took the top end off its worse to te point of hearing the air hissing. so say the vacuum to the FPR is the cause, why would only one cylinder misfire?
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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also car has 127,280 miles on it
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SmartOJ
now what i have observed is the vaccuum on the throttle body that feeds the fuel pressure regulator and something else has a terrible crack in it. it already had the crack but after we took the top end off its worse to te point of hearing the air hissing.
What is this "something else" that has a crack? :?
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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the part tht has the crack is the rubber piece for vacuum that he line for the FPR plugs into. its like a splitter for the vacuum lines.one opening on one side and 2 small holes on the other side. iwent to autozone and they didnt have. is this piece a dealer only part
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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well guys i can go ahead and assure u that vacuum was not the prob. i wrapped up that piece with lots of electrical just to see what happens and it did not make much of a noticable difference except u dont hear the hissing anymore. so i still got a rediculous miss on cyl #3.back to point one.also the bearings in my compressor are shot. it makes a roaring noise when car is running. is there anything i can do to fix it or is it gone. and yes the air is still blows very cold.
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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Is it the same cylinder showing the misfire? Have you checked the condition of that plug?
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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yep its the only one throwing a code. i swapped injectors to see if would change to different cylinder.didnt work. brand new plugs didnt work.as far as the wires, i only swapped the number 3 wire instead of a new set and the misfire remained. we also swapped icm and that didnt work. compression is decent.swapped coils didnt work. so right now i am pretty stumped on what it could be.what could possibly be cylinder specific
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 11:14 PM
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Could be a sticky exhaust or intake valve on #3. You can check this by pulling the front valve cover and then the valve springs for that cylinder, then pull the valves open and closed by hand and feel for a sticky spot. You will have to do this with the engine hot and there are precautions you need to take to ensure that you do not drop a valve into the cylinder.

If your friend is a mechanic at a dealership, then he should know how to do this. If you drop a valve, then the cylinder head will have to be removed to get the valve back into its guide. I do not recommend this for anyone who is not experienced with engines (the mechanical side of them...not the control side).

Did you guys take a look at the valve springs on #3 when you had the valve covers off? Did they look good-no broken springs?
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