how many miles before fuel pump craps out ?? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-16-2005, 09:31 PM   #11
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Default Re: pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
did you guys install OEM pumps?
Yes. I wouldn't use anything other than OEM for something as critical as a fuel pump. Plus, it'* not the most easy job to do on the H-bodies (< 99, anyway).
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Old 11-17-2005, 01:10 AM   #12
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I'd say OEM (AC Delco) or Walbro only. Walbro has a reputation for performance, quality, and reliability.



IN A NUTSHELL:


"When will my fuel pump crap out?" can be best answered by:

"When your fuel pressure doesn't meet spec".
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I'd say OEM (AC Delco) or Walbro only. Walbro has a reputation for performance, quality, and reliability.



IN A NUTSHELL:


"When will my fuel pump crap out?" can be best answered by:

"When your fuel pressure doesn't meet spec".
Ahhhh Very good....

I did mine at 139,000.... The pressure was good at idle, 42 PSI..... But then I could bring up the revs it would go to 45Psi and then drop steady... Once it dropped to 30-32 I knew the Pump was facing death.... As I no longer had any trust left in the pump( Don Had to take a 2000 miles round trip and didn't want to be left stranded by an unhappy pump ) I decided to replace the pump using an OEM AC Delco pump.... After the replacement the Fuel pressure was easily 50 psi with the ignition on, At idle it was 43-45, bring the revs up and the pressure would go up, dissconnect the regulator and poof 52-53 Psi with no drop... This was a big diffrene as compared to the older pump, it just couldn't keep up with demand.... Car seems to start easy every morning too, Barely touch the key....

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Old 11-17-2005, 11:14 AM   #14
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Don and Bill...I followed the same logic without consulting anyone!

That'* exactly what I thought when I replaced my pump...pressure was low, sluggish acceleration, and took longer to start.
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:17 AM   #15
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Funny thing on my 93, If I started it within a second or two of ignition on, it was fine, but 4 seconds after ignition on or later, it wouldn't be happy. It came up ok, but bled down too fast.

The 95 doesn't have that problem, it'* just a slow-starter each time, regardless of delay. It'* fuel pressure isn't quite as bad as the 93 was, but it'* close.

Maybe I can limp it until July and get some help dropping the tank at WCBF06.
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Maybe I can limp it until July and get some help dropping the tank at WCBF06.
Or if you have to in the mean time, use my trick....use a transmission jack as the extra set of hands. Transmission jack for dropping the tank is a life saver!
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:26 AM   #17
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Vital.. do you think the tranny jack is much better than a standard jack w/wood to protect the tank?
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Funny thing on my 93, If I started it within a second or two of ignition on, it was fine, but 4 seconds after ignition on or later, it wouldn't be happy. It came up ok, but bled down too fast.

The 95 doesn't have that problem, it'* just a slow-starter each time, regardless of delay. It'* fuel pressure isn't quite as bad as the 93 was, but it'* close.

Maybe I can limp it until July and get some help dropping the tank at WCBF06.
Bill, you may be able to limp it for a while... I knew my pressure was getting low for well over a year... I knew it wasn't so great when I had to run from the Hurricane( was a wee bit nervous if you know what I mean )<---- Even then I knew it was out of spec... But towards the end it wouldn't keep up at all, Ask for High demand( 5000 Rpms and it would let you know from time to time )...

If its holding pressure as opposed to a steady drop then you'll be ok for a while...

Oh on a side note for everyone..... My old pump could be heard inside the car with the windows up stereo turned down..... I could hear it whining/Groaning, Had to have the music on to a certain degree to drown it out.... The new pump is very quiet, I really have to pay attention in the morning to hear it purrr

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Old 11-17-2005, 11:44 AM   #19
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Mortehl'* pump was so bad that it would start to lose ground at anything over 1,500rpms. My fuel pressure gauge has a 7 foot hose, allowing FP to be monitored under actual driving conditions.

Sitting still and whacking the throttle is one ithing..but actual driving really shows any issues.
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Vital.. do you think the tranny jack is much better than a standard jack w/wood to protect the tank?
Definitely. With the method you suggested you'd have to balance the tank on top of the plywood, which is on top of the jack "donut". Makes it awkward. Plus you don't get the full range of movement. Basically with the standard jack you can only roll it forward and backward with ease. Left to right is a pain.

Transmission jack...you can take advantage of the 12"x12" (or bigger) flat plane. No need for plywood. Get full circular movements on the casters. You get 100% pivot out of the plane. And, it'* more sensitve to slight increases and decreases in height and plane adjustment. I also liked it because the pivot adjustment allowed for me to accomodate the car being on jack stands on an angle. My jack (or second hand) could accomodate it nicely!
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