OK, guys - you're not gonna believe this, but the Bonne was in for the scan today.

Diagnostic Codes that came up? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING - NO CODES WHATSOEVER. The mechanic says "it'* a healthy car."

So, we have NO IDEA whatsoever why the car would cut out on us like it does. One or more of you gentlemen mentioned the crank sensor, so I'm gonna call around today for the part. I guess it wouldn't hurt replacing, right? Any other "suggestions" as to what might cause this?

I don't get it......... :?

OK, one more question. In the Chilton Book #28200 there'* TWO -

1. Crankshaft Position Sensor (Electronic Engine Controls), and
2. Crankshaft Position Sensor (Electronic Ignition Systems)

Which one do we replace? Or should we just replace BOTH?

Layla...I doubt this has anything to do with the dinging and stalling problem. But I'm the resident devil'* advocate around here lately.

Have you replaced any light bulbs before the stalling and dinging started? Check them to make sure they are the right bulbs.

And whatever you do...never put anything made by Bosch into your car, bonnevilles hate bosch.

Hmmm... light bulbs. I don't think he'* replaced any light bulbs lately. A while back he replaced a broken headlamp, but this ding 'n die thing'* been goin' on for a while now and I'm pretty sure it was happening even before the replaced headlamp. If this doesn't have anything to do with the ding 'n die problem, what made you ask about light bulbs? LOL

If someone replaces a bulb (especially tail light) with one that fits...but isn't the correct bulb these cars start running horribly (sometimes) and you can go crazy trying to figure it out. Just trying to cross one more possibility off the list for you.

?????

A light bulb making the car run horrible? I'm going to play devil'* advocate to the devil'* advocate, and say this isn't even a remote possibility.

Bill...I've seen a GM truck do it and previous owner of my car was adament that I should never put the wrong bulb in...because he did it and the car wouldn't run right.

I can't believe you of all people haven't heard or seen this before...

JR...heard of this before? I think the reasoning is the wrong voltage ends up feeding back to the pcm and that reaks havoc.

Bulbs don't create or even modify voltage. If the demand is too high, it'll pop a fuse, but lighting circuits have no effect whatsoever on engine controls. I can put a 110v light bulb in my taillamp, and it won't have any negative effects on the system.

Isolation and overcurrent protection

Whoever told you that was grossly mis-informed, or messing with you. If the light bulb change 'fixed' the problem, it was pure coincidence. Light bulbs either do what they're told, or blow. Nothing else.

OK, we kind of got off topic about the light bulb thing and nobody ever answered my question from an earlier post, so I'll ask again.

In the Chilton Book #28200 there'* TWO -

1. Crankshaft Position Sensor (Electronic Engine Controls), and
2. Crankshaft Position Sensor (Electronic Ignition Systems)

Which one do we replace? Or should we just replace BOTH?