Head Bolts - Torque Specification and Sequence - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-12-2005, 01:16 PM   #11
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It is. I certainly hope the water in your oil pan hasn't started rusting out your crank, rods, bearings, etc.

Drain it immediately.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:17 PM   #12
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YES! The engine was "hydrolocked." The number 1 cylinder on the right bank was filled with water. When we removed the spark plug, the water came pouring out. When we removed the air plenum, the intake manifold was also covered in water.

What on the Intake Manifold fails exactly? Does it mean the intake manifold needs replacing, and how can we be sure? This is our problem.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
It is. I certainly hope the water in your oil pan hasn't started rusting out your crank, rods, bearings, etc.

Drain it immediately.
Are we talking about the air plenum (upper intake), is this the black plastic part that the throttle body connects to? Will this require replacement of this part, and HOW CAN WE BE SURE this is our problem??? Is this a Pontiac part ONLY, or can this be bought in an auto parts store over the counter?
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:57 PM   #14
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In Chilton Manual #28200 on page 3-28, ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL:

"On 1996-99 vehicles, the head bolts are designed to permanently stretch when tightened. The correct part number fastener MUST be used when replacing this type of bolt. Never use a bolt which is stronger in this application. If the correct bolt is not used, the parts will not be tightened correctly and component or system damage may occur."

Since our Bonneville is a 1995, and the Manual doesn't mention replacing the head bolts - SHOULD WE REPLACE THEM ANYWAY or can the old head bolts be used?

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR REPLIES! You have no idea how this forum is helping.
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Old 04-12-2005, 04:08 PM   #15
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UIM is the black plastic. Correct. There are dozens of posts here regarding the Vin K failures. Series 2 non-supercharged ran from 95-present. All are suspect. The plastic erodes around the EGR stovepipe, and allows coolant to leak into the LIM from the UIM water passages.

Chilton'* is right and wrong at the same time on the bolts. I know for certain that mine are torque to yeild, and it'* a 93. I personally helped Jseabert with his 93 L27 as well. I also no there were no differences between the 95 and 96 Vin K. If you call the dealer, you'll find that your bolts are indeed torque-to-yield on your 95.

There are a couple aftermarket improved designs, and some solutions by members here. Most are in the 92-99 forum.
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Old 04-12-2005, 04:15 PM   #16
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Is there a good source for ARP bolts?
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Old 04-12-2005, 04:23 PM   #17
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I wouldn't do it. But to answer your question, I have NFC.

We have for the most part, ZERO head gasket failures. I wouldn't mess with that track record by changing head bolts to something other than OEM.
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Old 04-12-2005, 06:10 PM   #18
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This is a classic case of a failed upper intake...

You need to replace the lower intake manifold gaskets while you are there as well... You can get a new motormite or Dorman upper intake for the car at your local auto parts store... Autozone and the like should be able to get them...

And like Willwren said.. I also have yet to see any 3800 V6 kill head gaskets...

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Old 04-13-2005, 12:48 AM   #19
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"Is there a good source for ARP bolts?"

Summitracing.com carries the complete line of ARP products.
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Old 04-13-2005, 11:09 AM   #20
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OK, guess what? We did all that you guys suggested and last night we finally got the car running again. Hubby says it runs way smoother than it ever did before.

BUT.................

Even before we did all these repairs - and again, after the repairs, we have this problem:

While driving the car, the bells go off - DING DING DING DING - and suddenly, the car cuts out and just dies where it is. It WILL start up again right away. However, we thought with all the repairs we just made to it, this might not happen anymore. He says it doesn't happen anywhere near as often as it did before, but it still does.

Any ideas on why the bells go off and the car dies?
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