Glass removal: front and rear - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-12-2006, 12:58 PM   #11
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Smarta$$.

I called another place that will do it for $100 each (At my location. They did say they can't garuntee the glass will be ok when they pull it out, and said specifically that the installer thought the front would most likely come out in pieces. It'* looking more and more like "hammer time"
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Old 01-12-2006, 03:20 PM   #12
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I've seen people pull a front window at a junk yard, with either thin wire or strong fishline.
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Old 01-12-2006, 03:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
I've seen people pull a front window at a junk yard, with either thin wire or strong fishline.
That'* what I was gonna suggest. Something like Spiderwire fishing line and a piece of thin wire to use as a needle. Work it through the glue and then saw it out with the fishing line.
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Old 01-12-2006, 03:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
I've seen people pull a front window at a junk yard, with either thin wire or strong fishline.
Second that...but having a shop do it for you might also be worth the money, since they will have more chance of saving that rear glass for you and the cost for the glass ain't only pennies.

If you're going to do that front glass yourself, with either fishline OR hammer, do yourself a favor and use some removeable tape and some plastic inside to catch all the glass pieces that might get loose. You'll be glad you did.
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:01 PM   #15
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There is a tool w/ blade bent sideways 90 degrees. It has a cable w/ a t-handle to pull blade. I've used this and a small braided wire. The braided wire cuts better than a smooth wire. It'* work but you can do it. Just don't get in a hurry. The bladed tool or wire are cheap.
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:02 PM   #16
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probably a stupid question, but why has the car been dissassembled for so long?
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELMACHOGERACHO
probably a stupid question, but why has the car been dissassembled for so long?

he is doing a FULL rebuild of the car...and i mean EVERYTHING in the car is getting torn down and then rebuilt with lots of custom stuff and goodies
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELMACHOGERACHO
probably a stupid question, but why has the car been dissassembled for so long?

he is doing a FULL rebuild of the car...and i mean EVERYTHING in the car is getting torn down and then rebuilt with lots of custom stuff and goodies
holy ****. any pics of the progress?
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELMACHOGERACHO
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELMACHOGERACHO
probably a stupid question, but why has the car been dissassembled for so long?

he is doing a FULL rebuild of the car...and i mean EVERYTHING in the car is getting torn down and then rebuilt with lots of custom stuff and goodies
holy ****. any pics of the progress?
Sig pic is about the best I have online right now. Hoping to start up on it again in the next 2 weeks. I'll get new pics then.
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Old 01-17-2006, 10:20 PM   #20
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Pull the molding off carefully. Next, get a piece of thin music wire at the local hobby shop and wrap it around a couple of dowels or sawed-off broom handles. stick the wire through the goop, loop it up on the other side, and pull it through the sealant.

Should work.
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