FL Wheel Bearing replacement ? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-19-2006, 06:22 PM   #11
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Okay, well it sounds like the axle slips through the ID of the bearing inner race without much friction and it should come apart with no more than a little helpful persuasion.. I'm used to tight fiting bearings where a puller is required to separate the bearing from the shaft/axle.

Now I'm better prepared, visuals and all !
Thanks again.
Hugh
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maymybonneliveforever
What would be a resonable amount of time to re & re each one? I need to do it when it gets warmer out and would like to have an idea.

Thanks everyone.

Let me try and ask that question again.................What would be a reasonable amount of time to re & re a wheel bearing?
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:17 PM   #13
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Not more than a couple of hours barring any unforseen problems.
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:33 PM   #14
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Thanks for the response markwb, that being said then I should be able to do both side plus the supercharger couple easily in a weekend?......This I have to see..... If that be the case then drinks are on the house! I'll let you all know when I get the parts. WoooooHoooooo. Sorry folks..........been a long couple of weeks and I've had a few, to .........how you say........get me to sleep quickly.. I want to get this bonne on the road so bad that I can't wait to get all the parts.
Patience grasshopper.........Patience.......
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:06 PM   #15
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I found a place called "Wheel Bearings Inc" who sell the wheel bearing-hub assembly that I need (p/n 513087), complete with ABS sensor for $69. They claim that their parts are manufactured with American made, or OEM bearings. Seems like a pretty good price compared to other vendors that I've seen on the net. Anyone had dealings with this company ?

Thanks, Hugh
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Old 03-19-2006, 10:38 PM   #16
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Any idea what the warranty is?
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Old 03-19-2006, 10:41 PM   #17
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Old 03-20-2006, 12:36 AM   #18
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That is a great price.

To answer your previous question, the axle shaft is deeply splined to mate with splines on the center of the hub assembly. Lots of times, once you have loosened the big nut, the shaft will push partway in through the hub (notice the penetrating oil). Other times, you have to wop the shaft to pop it loose from the hub. Beating on the shaft is a bad idea for expensive joint and transaxle reasons. If the shaft is rusted tightly to the hub, you may need to rent a puller to force it to move. With the hub assembly in place, there is not room for the shaft to push all the way through without separating the ball joint and tie rod end. But you are not pushing the shaft through, you are unbolting the hub and sliding it off the shaft.
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Old 03-20-2006, 09:07 AM   #19
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Thanks for the clarification Bill.
It looks like a job that I should have no trouble with (I hate surprises).
I'm going to order a new bearing assembly from Wheel Bearings Inc and give it a try when the weather warms up a little. (It'* still below freezing here but should start warming up through this month).
I also have a rattling coupler to change in the supercharger of my GTP. Lots 'o fun !

Hugh
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren

7. Remove the axle nut completely
8.
[/quote]

What size is the axle nut?
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