FL Wheel Bearing replacement ?
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From: Near Niagara Falls Canada
FL Wheel Bearing replacement ?
The front left wheel bearing on my wife'* '96 bonneville started making noise just after I recently had the transmission serviced. I called the tranny shop and told them that the noise was not there before they worked on the tranny. Of course they deny that the wheel bearing has anything to do with the tranny work but as I understand it, they may have had to remove the bearing/hub to remove the axle, to work on the tranny. Someone told me that they may have overtightened the nut that holds the bearing/ hub in place.
It would seem that my attempt to get them to fix, or partially pay for the bearing replacement would be an excercise in futility so I may just replace it myself.
I've done wheel bearings on older cars but I'm told that this bearing is actually a whole hub assembly that includes the ABS sensor. Can someone give me the "Coles Notes" condensed version of how to do it and what special tools may be required ?
Thanks...Hugh
It would seem that my attempt to get them to fix, or partially pay for the bearing replacement would be an excercise in futility so I may just replace it myself.
I've done wheel bearings on older cars but I'm told that this bearing is actually a whole hub assembly that includes the ABS sensor. Can someone give me the "Coles Notes" condensed version of how to do it and what special tools may be required ?
Thanks...Hugh
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Hugh, this is the submitted text of a future Techinfo article submitted by 95naSta:
Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Removal and Installation
1. Break wheel lugs loose and axle nut (34mm) if you have aftermarket rims
2. Jack up the car using the engine cradle or unibody below the front door
3. Remove wheel
4. Remove caliper using a 3/8 allen wrench
5. Have something tall enough to rest the caliper on so it isn’t hanging by the brake line
6. Remove rotor
7. Remove the axle nut completely
8. Unplug the ABS sensor
9. Put car in Neutral
10. Rotate the hub to gain access to 3 T55 bolts
11. Remove each bolt through the larger hole in the hub
12. Gently tap the axle and back of hub to break free from steering knuckle
13. Remove old hub assembly
14. Remove the metal guard that the ABS sensor attaches to and put it on the new hub assembly the same way
15. Take new hub assembly, feed the ABS sensor plug through the steering knuckle and put axle though the new unit
16. Bolt new hub assembly to the knuckle by tightening each T55 bolt down a little at a time
17. Once the T55 bolts are tightened completely, put the car in Park
18. Tighten the axle nut down to recommended torque given with new unit
19. Plug ABS sensor back in
20. Install rotor
21. Push brake caliper piston back using a c-clamp or brake tool
22. Install caliper using 3/8 allen wrench
23. Mount wheel
24. Lower car and tighten lugs in star pattern
1. Break wheel lugs loose and axle nut (34mm) if you have aftermarket rims
2. Jack up the car using the engine cradle or unibody below the front door
3. Remove wheel
4. Remove caliper using a 3/8 allen wrench
5. Have something tall enough to rest the caliper on so it isn’t hanging by the brake line
6. Remove rotor
7. Remove the axle nut completely
8. Unplug the ABS sensor
9. Put car in Neutral
10. Rotate the hub to gain access to 3 T55 bolts
11. Remove each bolt through the larger hole in the hub
12. Gently tap the axle and back of hub to break free from steering knuckle
13. Remove old hub assembly
14. Remove the metal guard that the ABS sensor attaches to and put it on the new hub assembly the same way
15. Take new hub assembly, feed the ABS sensor plug through the steering knuckle and put axle though the new unit
16. Bolt new hub assembly to the knuckle by tightening each T55 bolt down a little at a time
17. Once the T55 bolts are tightened completely, put the car in Park
18. Tighten the axle nut down to recommended torque given with new unit
19. Plug ABS sensor back in
20. Install rotor
21. Push brake caliper piston back using a c-clamp or brake tool
22. Install caliper using 3/8 allen wrench
23. Mount wheel
24. Lower car and tighten lugs in star pattern
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Geez, no longer did I finish the original post when I received an e-mail to let me know that I had received a reply. Many thanks Willwren.
To paraphrase my 12 year old daughter "You guys are the bomb" !
The Internet is wonderful !
Thanks again.
Hugh
To paraphrase my 12 year old daughter "You guys are the bomb" !
The Internet is wonderful !
Thanks again.
Hugh
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Attention to torquing spec of the nut noted.
I don't see any mention of removing the axle stub with the use of a puller. Doesn't the axle poke through the bearing ?
I'd like to see pictures if anyone happens to have any to prepare me before I tackle the job.
Thanks, Hugh
I don't see any mention of removing the axle stub with the use of a puller. Doesn't the axle poke through the bearing ?
I'd like to see pictures if anyone happens to have any to prepare me before I tackle the job.
Thanks, Hugh
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Great pictures...Thanks !
There seems to be a gap between the old bearing/hub still installed and the old and new assemblies sitting on the floor.
I'm having trouble understanding how the axle couples to the wheel hub. I assume that the big nut is screwed onto the axle...is it ? No puller is required to separate the bearing from the axle ? ...The hub assembly just comes away from the knuckle once you remove the 3 T55 bolts ?
Sorry to be a pain in the @$$. ..I'm into details
:?
There seems to be a gap between the old bearing/hub still installed and the old and new assemblies sitting on the floor.
I'm having trouble understanding how the axle couples to the wheel hub. I assume that the big nut is screwed onto the axle...is it ? No puller is required to separate the bearing from the axle ? ...The hub assembly just comes away from the knuckle once you remove the 3 T55 bolts ?
Sorry to be a pain in the @$$. ..I'm into details
:?
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From: Philly
The big nut is what holds the axle to the assembly. The hole in the center of the unit is where the axle goes through.
Once you remove those T55 bolts, the hub assembly may still be stuck to the knuckle. What I did was sprayed it with PB Blaster, tapped the axle through the hub assembly and tapped the back of the hub. (Just on the opposite side of the studs)
Once you remove those T55 bolts, the hub assembly may still be stuck to the knuckle. What I did was sprayed it with PB Blaster, tapped the axle through the hub assembly and tapped the back of the hub. (Just on the opposite side of the studs)