Engine Swap tips requested - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-25-2006, 11:53 AM   #11
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The first check will be the oil... It needs to be clean... Make sure it feels like oil and not thin or grainy... Also pay attention to the color... If the oil has a Graphite color say on a white paper towel, that engine is near its death... If the oikl is a dark dark brown, or brownish black, that engine may be ok, but a little late on the oil change...

When its started, if it has not sat too long it should start and any lifter Tick should go away in a hurry.. Now lifter chatter will be a bit of a dull lifter sound that should go away once the oil is circulated through the system...

When the engine is first started pay close attention to bottom end noise, there should be none... If there is a Klunk, klunk, klunk klunk and then its quiet that motor has a rod bearing thats wearing and the clearances are too great, that motor will soon spin a bearing and possibly launch the rod through the block..

So look for clean oil, A nice quiet start, good idle, no tapping from the lifters after it has run a few minuts, and no knocks on start up...

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Old 04-25-2006, 11:58 AM   #12
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Get that engine started...and run it...don't let them start it say good and pull it. Let it get good and warmed up. You want it to be full temp. Then give it a few revs to hear any noises.
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:09 AM   #13
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I may have been premature in my assessment of the motor. I started it up again on Tuesday morning and it sounded much better, so I went ahead and fixed my heater tube leak (I killed an o-ring trying to re-use it) and then drove the car to work and back (~75 miles) yesterday with no major issues.

This morning, after re-reading the replies, I fired it up again and listened closely from the driver'* seat. I think there is a bit of bottom-end rumble when it first starts, then it goes away. I'll check again when I have the opportunity to have my ear in the engine compartment at start-up.

Otherwise, I'm tickled pink with the car! Sure, there are some issues, but hey, it'* twelve years old. It gives me the opportunity to research more older posts on things like A/C, Brakes and check engine lights...

Bottom line: I'll probably drive it as-is and let the yard off the hook. By the time this motor croaks I'll know if I'm in love of if it is just infatuation.
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:19 AM   #14
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Bottom end noise on start up? Hmmm

Be worried about bottom end noise after full operating temp. If you don't have that..then you probably have a good motor.
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:27 PM   #15
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I visited the junkyard yesterday with the car. The 'boss' was real nice, said the warranty was still good - didn't even want to listen to the motor or look when I offered. He said he should have another one sometime this week that is better... 100K roughly or less, no knocks and normal oil pressure. I'll plan to see it run!

Thanks for the help... I really didn't want to have to swap again, but that is how it goes sometimes.

If he doesn't want the 'bad' one back, I'll try throwing in a $25 set of rod bearings before I pull it out... maybe I can milk it that way. Otherwise, it'* switcherooni again.

Oh, I did find an easy way of getting that backwards bell housing bolt in! It was much easier than taking it out. Simply put, I laid about 18" of extension with the 18mm socket on top of the "L" bracket (drive end) with the socket over the bolt, and the bolt end through the engine and flush with the bell housing mating surface. It stayed perfectly still while I dropped in the motor, and tightened up the other bell housing bolts. The second time out should be easier, too.
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