1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

engine shuts off

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Old 12-19-2005, 11:23 AM
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It took the battery with it. Our cars require a lot of power for all the goodies... I still don't agree. There is a better chance of this being a battery cable corroded or loose.
Old 12-19-2005, 11:28 AM
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yes i do agree.. i guess i should have said..

in the worse case scenerio if its not something simple, like corroded battery cables or old battery.. than you should look into your alternator.

Old 12-19-2005, 11:35 AM
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I disagree. Check the alternator if you like, but I've never seen an alternator on a Bonneville in 3 years fail in this manner. It'* either a battery connection problem or a corrosion problem.
Old 12-19-2005, 11:39 AM
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Agreed Willwren...
Old 12-19-2005, 05:51 PM
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Also, (and I have had this happen on an H Body), check the bolt in the center of the MaxiFuse Relay Center. That'* where the main power into the car goes, and this bolt can corrode or loosen, causing intermittent outages as described.
Old 12-19-2005, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
I disagree. Check the alternator if you like, but I've never seen an alternator on a Bonneville in 3 years fail in this manner. It'* either a battery connection problem or a corrosion problem.
Agree with the alt, but disagree with the cables.

I've been through the battery cable thing, and if the car would be shutting down due to that, he'd loose all power to it.....Or the car would barely crank, if at all, simulating a dead battery.

I'm gonna go with a fuel delivery problem with out load.....Like maybe a fuel pump cutting out, or dropping pressure, loosing power, etc. Seeing how sometimes it'* real hard to start after it has stalled, but yet still has all his bells and whistles.

My $.02......Let the criticism begin LOL
Old 12-19-2005, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 94BonnieSE

The battery doesnt have to be fully depleaded for the car to come to a shutdown. It just has to be very close to nothing (8 volts or less). When the car shutsdown there is still a bit of power in the battery once it is cranked the battery goes and takes power from the alternator, just enough to crank the engine.. as his rpms shootup his alternator starts to kick in and feed the battery.
When the engine is shutdown & then starting the engine again, the battery is the sole source of energy to provide electrical power for cranking, ignition, fuel pumps and so forth. The battery doesn't take power from the alternator while the engine is going through the initial start sequence. Once the engine fires & picks up speed, the alternator comes up on line (full field at rpm) and is then paralleled with the battery. The alternator is running at a slightly higher voltage than the battery, this is how the alternator puts amp/hrs back into the battery (charging the battery) to bring the state of charge up to nominal value. Electrical, fuel, & ignition all have to be isolated out one by one. The beast will have to rear it'* ugly head eventually.
Old 12-19-2005, 07:18 PM
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OK, I re-read the original post (I should know better than to just go by the last few replies).

Check that the bolts holding the throttle body are tight, and that the Fuel Pressure Regulator is good. My car used to stall like you described in your post. While I was replacing the FPR, I found that the throttle body bolts were loose. Fixed 'em both at the same time, and she'* never stalled since.
Old 01-02-2006, 02:37 PM
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I took the car to a different shop and they said the fuel pressure regulator was bad. It has not shut off since it has been replaced. Thanks for all the replys this site rocks.

Jimbo
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