Engine Rebuild - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-24-2003, 10:25 AM   #1
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Default Engine Rebuild

Hello everyone I am new to this site. I recently puchase a 92 SSEi with 162,000 miles on it. After about a day driving it developed a knock and the oil pressure droped. Figuring that the engine spun a bearing I decieded to rebuild it. I have pulled the engine out of the car and will do a complete rebuild on it. My question are there any modifications I should consider making to the engine for more horse power and perfomace while I have the engine apart. I would like it to remain a daily driver so nothing to drastic.
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Old 02-24-2003, 11:37 AM   #2
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You bet! The least you should do is port and polish the heads. Also, if you have the equipment available, weld the outside flanges of the exhaust/manifold/headers to the pipes, and use a die grinder to clean up the factory welds on the inside. Look in there, you'll see what I mean.

Here'* a link to a DIY head port and polish site:

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyguide.shtm
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Old 02-24-2003, 08:12 PM   #3
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Default Re: Engine Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmykel
Hello everyone I am new to this site. I recently puchase a 92 SSEi with 162,000 miles on it. After about a day driving it developed a knock and the oil pressure droped. Figuring that the engine spun a bearing I decieded to rebuild it. I have pulled the engine out of the car and will do a complete rebuild on it. My question are there any modifications I should consider making to the engine for more horse power and perfomace while I have the engine apart. I would like it to remain a daily driver so nothing to drastic.
Well too bad you already pulled the engine because it may have not been that at fault here! Best thing to have done was to install a "Master" guage to check the oil pressure first! Then depending on it'* findings, then do a compression check of each cylinder (Wet & Dry testing). With these three readings, your REAL problem could've been narrowed down w/o the engine torn apart prematurely! Just a little advice to the next person doing this!
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Old 02-25-2003, 08:28 AM   #4
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I did take it to two shop in my area to evaluate the problem. Both shops concluded the same proplem that I did and suggested I trash the car because to fix it would not be worth the money. They did not feet the car was as cool as I do. Also with 162,000 miles on the engine I wanted to rebuild it anyways. I did not go into the evaluation process in my first post because I did not see the value in all that writing. Do you have any suggestions to my original request as to what mods I should look at. Thank you all for your response. Please limit your replies to helpfull suggestions not self elevatiing ones.
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Old 02-25-2003, 09:42 AM   #5
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I didn't mean offense to you personally. I've just too many pull an engine w/o any diagnosics first as to the real problem. If your car'* engine was finished, then that'* fine.

As to your original question, try P&P'ng the Lower Intake & Cylinder Heads & TB. How about a new SC? Better flowing exhaust?
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Old 02-25-2003, 12:22 PM   #6
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Rat thanks for your response I can understand your position. Thanks for the suggestions. Willwren suggested the P&P on the heads and posted a link to some good info on the subject. That appears to be the way to go on the heads. I am curious about your suggestion about a new SC. I read the info on FLOZ and want to stay clear of that nest. Is there real value in a new SC or maybe some work on my old one. I took it off last night and inspected it there does not seem to be much wear, although I can not tell much about bearings and tolerences by looking at the outside, it appears to be in good condition. What can you or anyone else out there tell me about a reduced pully. I measured mine last night but did not know were the ref. point was, is it the bottom of the groves the top of the groves or the overall outside diameter. The SC is one of reasons I bought the car and would like to up the boost. Is there any type of intercooler available?
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Old 02-25-2003, 12:48 PM   #7
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Do your lower intake while you're doing the heads. Otherwise it'* somewhat self-defeating (good recovery, btw to both of you )

I'd put that sucker back together first. Once it'* running, test for boost. If you get at least 8psi at wot in gear (under load) and closer to 9 in cold weather, you're fine on the SC ifyou have no 'rattle' at idle. If it rattles at idle, change the coupler for 30 bucks. It'* easy to go back and change the SC later. Worry about the engine itself first. If you do need another, Canadian Supercharger is highly recommended. Best prices, and second only to Eaton/Magnusson in product. Proven performers in our cars. Your pulley is 2.55". Measure from the belt face, ignore the grooves. www.pulleyboys.com is your source, but test your engine and SC under boost first. You don't want to run the smaller pulley during break-in anyway.
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Old 02-25-2003, 04:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmykel
Rat thanks for your response I can understand your position. Thanks for the suggestions. Willwren suggested the P&P on the heads and posted a link to some good info on the subject. That appears to be the way to go on the heads. I am curious about your suggestion about a new SC. I read the info on FLOZ and want to stay clear of that nest. Is there real value in a new SC or maybe some work on my old one. I took it off last night and inspected it there does not seem to be much wear, although I can not tell much about bearings and tolerences by looking at the outside, it appears to be in good condition. What can you or anyone else out there tell me about a reduced pully. I measured mine last night but did not know were the ref. point was, is it the bottom of the groves the top of the groves or the overall outside diameter. The SC is one of reasons I bought the car and would like to up the boost. Is there any type of intercooler available?
I can get you a very sweet deal on either a new SC or even just a nose cone if you want! Just email me for more details! I might even be able to get you an intercooler too if need be!
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Old 02-26-2003, 08:53 AM   #9
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I case anyone was curious I found the problem last night on my engine. Just as suspected number 3 rod bearing was spun. The crank shaft looks pretty bad probably needs replacing I don't think I can salvage it. I am very suprised at the condition of the engine. There is not any oil build up and the cylinders are in excellent condition. You would not think there was 100,000 mile on it let alone 167,000. Anyone know if there was a different crank in the SC engine from the non SC. Looking for a good crank don't want to spend a fortune.
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Old 02-26-2003, 09:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmykel
I case anyone was curious I found the problem last night on my engine. Just as suspected number 3 rod bearing was spun. The crank shaft looks pretty bad probably needs replacing I don't think I can salvage it. I am very suprised at the condition of the engine. There is not any oil build up and the cylinders are in excellent condition. You would not think there was 100,000 mile on it let alone 167,000. Anyone know if there was a different crank in the SC engine from the non SC. Looking for a good crank don't want to spend a fortune.
Contact Ty at Domestiic Performance! He'll get you one!
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