EGR valve - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-25-2006, 05:05 PM   #1
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Default EGR valve

Guys, anyone know where the EGR valve is on my car and how to get to it? Do I have to take the supercharger off to get to it? And lastly is it expensive to replace..?
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Old 07-25-2006, 05:48 PM   #2
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The EGR valve is located right in front there.Its right next to the valve cover.. Thats where it is. I never had to replace mine, so I dont know cost, but it shouldnt be that much.


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Old 07-25-2006, 07:57 PM   #3
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It may depend, but I'm pretty sure they are around $140-180 new. And that'* not the dealer price.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:03 AM   #4
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How do you clean it? How do you check for cracks on the pipe that follows to the TB?
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:09 AM   #5
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Default EGR?

Tell us why you feel you need to replace the EGR valve?
How many miles. History.
Symptoms? I've never had to replace one. When I thought I might have one that had a weakened spring, it turned out to be a problem with the ROM in the main computer. By that time the service guy could replace it with modifications to reduce engine uneveness at 50-55 at lockup torque converter. It also changed the lockup speeds to bypass the symptom speeds.
New wires; new plugs; new ROM; lose $100 for ROM; like new again.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SLEeper
How do you clean it? How do you check for cracks on the pipe that follows to the TB?
EDIT: These directions are for an L67 sorry, you will have a plastic clip on the top. I haven't removed those ones.

There is a 13mm nut on top and a 10mm on bottom. Remove both, lift the bottom end up FIRST, the swing it counter-clockwise a bit and the top pulls right out. I did this and found a crack in my tube at the bottom. It'* a pretty bad vacuum leak to have. If you have a slightly rough idle or boost gauge that flutters a bit a crack in the tube can cause it (but so will many other things). You'll be running lean if you have a crack and so you'll want to be careful.
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Old 07-26-2006, 05:16 PM   #7
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It has a rough idle and when i reach cruising rpm it starts to sun REALLY rough, But when I mash the gas it goes away and seems like its skipping just a little. Someone said its probably the egr so im going to try that rirst, I just had to have the harmonic balancer replaced and I dont want to spend another 600 bucks geting this fixed..
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Old 07-26-2006, 05:39 PM   #8
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Do yourself a favor before you go buy an EGR valve just because it "could be" that. Carefully check all your vacuum line connection for cracks and splits, including the ones under your airbox at the evap. cannister. Any cracks or splits should be replaced with new rubber vac line.

Also, and probably more seriously, check the metal EGR tubes for cracks and splits. That is a relatively common area for major vacuum loss and the intake of unregulated air.

Any questions you have tonight can likely be answered by doing a quick search on "vacuum" or "vacuum lines". There are any number of recent threads walking people through this procedure.

Many suggest using some carb/choke cleaner and spraying it around your engine bay while running. Specifically around the EGR tubes, the SC intake gasket area, and all the exposed vacuum line connections. Any change in idle tone will indicate a likely leak area.

It may be that your EGR valve is bad, but it is more likely that you have some vacuum leaks.
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Old 07-26-2006, 06:43 PM   #9
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Theres a guy at the Grand Prix forum who goes by the name of GTPMorad who sells EGR valves for 35 bucks.

http://www.moradpartscompany.com/

He may also sell other parts for cheap...
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:07 AM   #10
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this is a guess im not sure on this but if he wanted to know if he had a vacuum leak somewhere couldnt he pull of the oil cap and see if it wants to die?
mine had one once and thats how i found it, was missing an o-ring on the pcv valve
thats probably way off but if it did work he would be able to narrow it down to a vacuum leak
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