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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-14-2008, 11:38 AM   #1
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My EGR valve is failing, according to my cars recent checkup. Can anyone tell me what this means and what has to be done to fix it.

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Old 05-14-2008, 06:35 PM   #2
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A failing or failed EGR valve will cause driveability issues and the potential to fail an emmisions test. Usually a failed EGR will set a code and your SES light will come on. Driveing with a failed EGR will not cause engine damage. Most auto parts stores will scan your car for free. This way you can tell for sure if you have an issue with the EGR or another system. The EGR valve is electronic and controlled by the ECM. They are not cheap. Sometimes you can clean the pintle and seat on them but I had limited sucess with mine and ended up replacing it. On the good side, they are VERY easy to replace, should only take about 10 minutes to replace after you get over the shock of buying one. Mine was $163 but I believe your "96 has the "linear" style EGR valve and I suspect the pricing will be close. Rock Auto is a good source for parts and members here get a discount. I have seen many of the later style EGR'* available thru Ebay also.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57lxi
Driveing with a failed EGR will not cause engine damage.
Not quite correct. Not having a working EGR valve can, over time, lead to some engine damage on an engine designed to run with one. EGR is used to cool the cylinders off in response to engine knock and other load conditions. Having one stuck open will kill off the engines idle ability, Not having a working EGR valve (stuck closed) can lead to burned valves, burned off sparkplug electrodes, etc. Worst case is engine knock and the damage that can cause..unchecked will trash bearings and pistons.

Short term, you can get away with it, but put it on the list of things to fix as soon as funds allow.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:27 PM   #4
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It seems backwards, but the EGR actually REDUCES combustion temperatures.

Some EGR'* respond well to cleaning, others don't.
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Old 05-15-2008, 10:12 AM   #5
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If your EGR just needs cleaning (at least try this before spending the big $$), remove it and use alcahol or carb cleaner and a wire brush to remove all the carbon build up from the spintle shaft. I know that is what I would try before buying a new EGR. This works fairly often, at least often enough to do it first, IMO.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:14 PM   #6
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In other words, itī* an expensive little piece of machinery.

Do you know an approximate cost and where can one find one???
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:58 PM   #7
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www.rockauto.com


Make sure you use the club discount code to save more!
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butch
In other words, itī* an expensive little piece of machinery.

Do you know an approximate cost and where can one find one???
My wifes was $150 and that was 3-4 years ago. Rockauto is great if you don't absolutely need it today!
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Old 10-14-2008, 06:20 PM   #9
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Can anybody tell me if it'* a simple task to remove the EGR, clean it, and re-install it?
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:30 PM   #10
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Ensure the engine is ice cold as the EGR retains lots of exhaust heat. (experience talking here..lol)

Then it'* one electrical connector and two 13mm bolts. pretty straight forward. I have cleaned them with carb cleaner and worked the valve until the pintle moves freely w/o sticking at either end of the stroke.
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