Check to make sure the vacuum line is connected to the MAP

I did that, too. Just pull out both pieces and check for any debris. Then, spend $50 on a new one, put some oil on the rubber, and stick it in. Problem solved.


I don't think so. Either that or mine'* missing.

New MAP...check engine still flashing, car still shaking A LOT. :/

So I've created a new problem I need to solve before I can solve my first issue. I'll check the vacuum line first thing tomorrow. If it is connected... what the hell did I do?!

Be sure to check all your vacuum lines. You may have knocked something loose. As for your PCV, I would say stop at the auto parts store and ask if the PCV valve comes with a spring.

It def doesn't come with a spring. So I suppose that was normal.
Will check all vacuum lines before work tomorrow.

My main question right now is is it safe to drive my car with the flashing engine light and this shaking?

If I don't find any loose vacuum lines tomorrow, I'll be taking it to a shop next week, for the new problem and old.

If I do find a vacuum issue and fix it, then I'll give myself another day or two to try to get the IAC out and cleaned.
But sadly it looks like this may just be a job I need to pay a lot of money for at a shop. :/

You could, but it'* a risk I wouldn't take. The flashing light indicates a misfire, which can cause premature catalytic converter failure. And that'* no fun to finance.

I agree, the flashing light is a sign something is wrong and needs to be taken care of. If you pull all the plugs and inspect them, you should notice a difference in a plug or two. make note of which ones. If they both match a coil, that coil could be bad. I just remembered I had a car here last week, bad misfire. Both plugs were on the same coil. So bad coil right? Wrong. Swapped 2 coils around and the misfire stayed with the same two plugs. The ICM was actually bad. Swapped it out and misfire was gone.

Yikes!! Will try to find a ride to work then!

Now chances are high this misfire is because of something I messed with today, right?
Or is it what my previous problem degenerated into?

The MAP sensor and PCV valve on the NA engine have no vacuum lines going into them. You shouldn't have had to touch any vacuum lines in the process, except if you were messing around the EGR assembly. An EGR leak will cause a rough idle and random stalling (like Dan mentioned earlier), but in my personal experience, it'* never misfired.

Do you have access to a code reader? Hook one up and check. You'll definitely have a P0300 and P0102; anything else will greatly help us out.

Also, when was the last time you've tested your battery, alternator, and battery cables? Don't forget that sensors are all electrical. The same day that my previous battery died (a few summers ago), I had a one-time P0102 code as well that disappeared with the old battery.

Bat cables/alt/bat were all tested about 2 weeks ago, and after I cleaned the cables all was fine.

Only code reader access I have is by driving it to o reilly.