Cutting access hole for Fuel Pump. **Done, no BOOM - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-08-2008, 06:05 PM   #1
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Default Cutting access hole for Fuel Pump. **Done, no BOOM

after my top swap, seen here http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...687&highlight=, im still having a lean condition. and my fp is not putting out what it should. WOT was only about 30 psi. and having just put this pump in, the last thing i want to do is drop the tank again.

sooo, i have been contomplating cutting a hole right behind the back seat, where the fp is located. i was thinking of putting a welding blanket between the tank and the body. will this be enough to protect the tank from sparks?

what are some thoughts?

i really wish i would have cut a hole when i had the tank out the first time, but here i am, what can ya do.
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Old 05-08-2008, 07:48 PM   #2
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bad idea IMO, if you were to make a plate to go over it and seal it up good then it might work, but the sending units are so large you would need a real large hole to get the sending unit and all its lines out.

Honestly I can have a H body tank down and out in about a half hour so I don't see the point.
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:16 PM   #3
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well, the full tank and exhaust are the main reasons for not wanting to drop the tank.

I'm not too worried about the seal afterwards. that will be fairly easy to take care of.

are there any structural affects to doing this? if not, i just may do it tomorrow.
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:37 AM   #4
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at least on my car the dropping the exhaust down is literally a 10 minute affair, loosen hanger by the cat, and remove the 2 15mm bolts that hold the muffler up and it is down, then it is easy enough to work around from there on out

from what you described you can still drive the car, so I would just burn up the tank you have then drop it.

but to answer your question i don't see any structural integrity being removed by doing that, but make sure you use something good to cover that hole back up.
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:14 PM   #5
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Hook up a line to the test port and have a few gas can ready. Turn the car on and let the car pump the tank dry.
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Old 05-09-2008, 05:03 PM   #6
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Its probably going to take you just as much labor and time to cut a hole and fabricate a cover so I would just drop the tank also. It should come apart easy if you just had it down.
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:55 PM   #7
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so, i went for it....and I would recomend for NO ONE to do this. the lines and harness are very close to the body. it would be easy to nick them and cause a HUGE problem. I am an idiot for going this far. but its too late to turn back now.

i started by hammering a piece of sheet metal to fit the contours. Thats gonna be my lid. It will make a good seal.




this where i left it for today. i tried to get the sender out, but I have to cut more to clear the lines. When i open the lock ring, i smelled fumes (obviously) so i didnt want to cut anymore. that was SCARY sheet.
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:17 PM   #8
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Nice cuts. Glad a plasma cutter was not involved. :P
Did I tell you about the time I was using a Saber saw to cut a hole in the wall and sliced through the house wiring? Saw stopped immediately, blew a hole in the glowing red blade, and I had an extra home repair to do. If that blade would have just been an inch shorter. HA Glad to see you have it done and nothing burnt to the ground
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Old 05-15-2008, 09:22 PM   #9
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Now I know where to find the FTP.

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Old 05-15-2008, 09:38 PM   #10
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FTP? That'* the fuel sending unit in the picture. The fuel tank pressure (FTP?) sender is on the other side of the tank. I just got a new tank & sender the other day. I can send a picture if you want to see where it'* located.
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