Crank sensor - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-14-2007, 04:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoominbusa
Would this cause your motor to lock up?
If enough coolant got into the engine than it would.

I have not yet got to enjoy the intake failure, so I don't know a lot about it.

It might be a good time to investigate some of the intake failure threads. I know it is not what you want to hear, but if the things described in those threads sound familiar, then you may know your problem and save a lot of time.

Start here, there are links and a lot of info all about the intake -
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:40 PM   #22
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Thanx I will check em out...
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:59 PM   #23
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Impatient, I read the thread and went out to check the radiator and it was dang near empty. The UIM gasket was changed but the lower was not touched. Man this stinks!! Is it a major job to change the LIM gasket and i think the motor may have hydrolocked, what can i do about that? This could probably mean that a rod is bent right?
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Old 04-14-2007, 06:21 PM   #24
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Was the engine running when it hydro-locked? Either way, a bent rod is a possibility, but not a given. Pull all of the plugs, and turn the engine over a few times to pump the water out of the cylinders. Then, drain the oil out of the pan, and pull the oil filter. Put on a new filter, put new oil in and crank the engine a few times to get that oil through there. Let it settle, and drain it again. (Cheap oil and filter is fine for this.)

Then re-read the techinfo article that you were linked to about the intake failures. There are some links there that deal with the tear down, also. We can only hope that the lower end is still good, depending on how long it'* been sitting in coolant.
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Old 04-16-2007, 09:32 PM   #25
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Yes the engine was running but it stalled and I did not attempt to restart it until the following day after I changed the CPS and the serpintine belt. It locked up so I removed the plugs and blew the water out and tore the upper intake off and she was loaded with water. I got all the water out and proceeded to lower intake. A failed gasket just as Arbelac said, like his. Now I have all the gasket surfaces clean and I am ready to reassemble. I went to advance auto and bought some of the 2nd edition LIM gaskets and those were like 70 bucks, I thought the GM ones were going to be more expensive. I have yet to hear from the parts guy on a price for the aluminum GM gaskets. I believe these would be better right. Also, If the engine still turns over ok how can I be certain a rod was not bent and if it is very slightly will it affect any thing else?
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:55 AM   #26
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Get the aluminum ones. Wayyyy better.

IIRC, If it turns over by hand cranking it, with steady even pressure (ie it doesn't catch, or have any spots where you have to push harder), the rods should be okay.

Someone like Archon or billboost could be more definative I'm sure.
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:03 AM   #27
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I assume you've drained your oil already? If not, do it ASAP. Any water in your oil pan will rust your crank, rods, and bearings and cost you the motor. Change it again a couple days after you start driving it again.

The aluminum gaskets are only $50 or so. www.intense-racing.com has them. They also happen to be in Ohio.

And flush the DEX out.
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:33 AM   #28
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On spinning the motor by hand...if the plugs are still out it should be reasonably easy with a long ratchet and socket on the harmonic balancer (no belts).

If the belts are on or plugs are in..then it will require more force and with plugs in..you will find it will get harder..then let go, hard, let go. That'* the compression strokes of the various cylinders.
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:48 PM   #29
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I will definitely try that intense racing site, VERY NICE!! I will return those felpros and get the aluminum ones. Thanks for dropping that site to me willwren!! I will try and bar it over I really hope everything is ok, man after all this work I wanna drive this baby and enjoy the fruits of my labor HA!! I'll keep you updated on my findings.. By the way I cannot get my hands on a in. lbs. torque wrench all I have is a 1/2 and 3/8 drive ft. lbs wrenches, is there and reference chart on the web anywhere that will give me a conversion? Or anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:56 PM   #30
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Divide your inch/pound value by 12, and that'* the ft/lb target.

12 inches to a foot.
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