Coolant in the engine complete engine shutdown whar do i do?
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From: North of Buffalo, NY *** NEBF '05, '06, '07 *** ***ONBF & NYBF 06; 07*** ***WCBF 06***
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Originally Posted by haughty
mine was a UIM gasket- I had it replaced when I first saw fluid on the manifold- and I never had a visible loss of coolant tho- but that is what I lost- Spun bearings. yes get it ASAP. and once fixed- change OIL- drive it get it hot- and change oil again- just to be safe
do you guys agree?
do you guys agree?
The upper intake failure usually begins by using some coolant almosy unnoticed by most owners... By the time you get to the point you are at the oil has already been contaminated with the byproduct of coolant being burned in the combustion process... The oil will become acidic and eat up the bearings... There is a new member that actually had pics of the bearings in his car.... The ones thast didn't spin were badly pitted...
If you notice you are slowing losing coolant...it'* the different between the "hot' and 'cold' levels on the overflow bottle over the course of 3k-4k miles... and if you change your oil every 3k miles... is that fresh oil going to be contaminted to the point of doing damage to your engine fore you change it again in another 3k miles?
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Originally Posted by singscountry1967
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Originally Posted by haughty
mine was a UIM gasket- I had it replaced when I first saw fluid on the manifold- and I never had a visible loss of coolant tho- but that is what I lost- Spun bearings. yes get it ASAP. and once fixed- change OIL- drive it get it hot- and change oil again- just to be safe
do you guys agree?
do you guys agree?
The upper intake failure usually begins by using some coolant almosy unnoticed by most owners... By the time you get to the point you are at the oil has already been contaminated with the byproduct of coolant being burned in the combustion process... The oil will become acidic and eat up the bearings... There is a new member that actually had pics of the bearings in his car.... The ones thast didn't spin were badly pitted...
If you notice you are slowing losing coolant...it'* the different between the "hot' and 'cold' levels on the overflow bottle over the course of 3k-4k miles... and if you change your oil every 3k miles... is that fresh oil going to be contaminted to the point of doing damage to your engine fore you change it again in another 3k miles?
If you are loosing coolant coolant over a weeks time than you may have a leak somewhere in the cooling system ... But again it is normal to loose about that much in 3-4 k miles... I always add a little about the time I do an oil change just to keep the res full... I always fill mine to full hot...
Sounds like you are doing ok...
If you lost several ounces or more a week then I would be worried
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From: HOuston
my coolant loss was almost neglible amounts- maybe a pint every 3k. It was only when i noticed the lil green stain on the UIM that I went BING!. and it wasnt much- the oil wasnt even milky. I changed the oil religously every 2.5-3k. It happens with even well maintained cars....
It was noticed when the oil pressure started going below 40 when i was idling...
then it was too late....it started to tick... it started... I hate that nightmare....
It was noticed when the oil pressure started going below 40 when i was idling...
then it was too late....it started to tick... it started... I hate that nightmare....
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From: Saukville Wisconsin
ok well i drained the oil today the oil looked good there was a slight slight whitish substance floating on the very top of the oil that i drained mabey some gravel dust that got in the pan or a drop or 2 of coolant but either or the oil is out of the engine engine sounded 100% yesterday after it fired up so hopefully this will be chep for me whats it most likley and how much would it cost at a dealer and how much would it cost with me and what kind of tools do i need? thanks
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From: Sauk Centre, MN
Wish I was a little closer. I have time, but my car is down for the count and while I'm laid off I am trying to keep spending down. :(
Either Dillon intake or an aluminum SIII L26 unit from www.car-part.com (as cheap at $45) with a TB adapter from performance vendor should do the trick
Either Dillon intake or an aluminum SIII L26 unit from www.car-part.com (as cheap at $45) with a TB adapter from performance vendor should do the trick
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From: Farmington, Minnesota =MWBF '05 SURVIVOR= =CEBF '06 SURVIVOR= =August '06 COTM=
Hrmmm...If I remember right, Milwaukee isn't THAT bad of a drive for me, I'm not sure though...
I'll have to look it up sometime tonight while I'm not trying to run out the door.
I'll have to look it up sometime tonight while I'm not trying to run out the door.
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From: Saukville Wisconsin
I think i can do its kinda simple if its the intake manifold ne chance its the head gaskets? or not cause it rushed in so fast? Do i just need gaskets or what o ya btw i flushed my radiator about 3-4 months ago cause i mixed dex-cool with the green stuff and the guy at quickylube said that can eat away at ur gaskets so i did a radiator flush and filled it with the green stuff and the coolant on the radiator cap looked like it had a clumpy gasket likeness to it..... o and the torque specks are all different on the upper and lower intake but was just wondering whats the chance that its the head gaskets and whats the chance that it is the upper or lower intake? DUnno how complex it is and i dont have many tools at this location yet just the basic ones.... sockets wrenchs etc