Coils replaced and O2 too, but still having probs - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-17-2004, 11:20 AM   #11
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you can take the car to Autozone, Advance , or Pepboys and they should scan the codes for free
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:41 AM   #12
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Yeah definately have it taken in and have them look for codes (free). Also ask them to tell you the fuel trims, long and short term. You may want to look into the possibility of a leaky fuel injector. The rough running and backfiring are consistent with the symptoms, although generally it takes a few more cranks to get it started in the morning.
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:34 PM   #13
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The Autozone scans are no good. From prior posts I have found out that the 95 was a hybrid between the OBD I and OBDII systems which makes reading them with over the counter code readers virtually impossible. Autozone was no help, and a buddy of mine has the expensive over the counter OBDII reader and it also could not read my codes. I went to Advance because they claimed they could read it too, and thier scanners were also no good. AGHHHHH!!!!

I checked the injectors and they seem OK, not sure how you are supposed to tell if they are leaking or not. Also she starts up right away in the morning. And if the injectors were leaking wouldn't the gas leak past my rings and end up in the oil? I've checked the oil and its fine.
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:44 PM   #14
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Birch, please put your year and model in your signature. It'll help us to help you.

Please check all your plug wires very soon. Spray them lightly with a mist of water at night (dark) and look for sparks. If none are found, pull each wire and check it'* resistance. They should evenly progress higher the longer they are, with the three rear wires being a bit more than the front three. Actual values will vary by manufacturer, so just look for an even progression of resistance values.

Do not count on the ICM testers being accurate. They're not. I've seen good ICM'* read bad, and bad ICM'* read good. They check only BASIC functionality, and don't take into account all the extra technology you have stuffed in yours. I have personally never seen a coil take out an ICM. But it wouldn't hurt to swap an ICM with another 3800 for testing.
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:44 PM   #15
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Willwren,
I replaced the wires when I replaced the coils. I removed all the plugs looked them over and gapped them just to be sure. They all looked good. I consider myself a half way decent mechanic as far as troubleshooting, at least with older cars, but this computer/sensor crap doesn't make much sense to me. Everything that I know tells me that this is some kind of an ignition and maybe a timing prob. I'm kind of at my wits end. these parts are too expensive to just play the "troubleshoot by replacing" mehtod, not to mention I don't have the money!
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birchymm
Willwren,
I consider myself a half way decent mechanic as far as troubleshooting, at least with older cars, but this computer/sensor crap doesn't make much sense to me.
I hear you there.

It might just be time to go off to the stealership or another shop that can read your codes. It will usually cost you $20-$60 depending on what they do. It could just be a loose connection somewhere.
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birchymm
Willwren,
I replaced the wires when I replaced the coils. I removed all the plugs looked them over and gapped them just to be sure. They all looked good. I consider myself a half way decent mechanic as far as troubleshooting, at least with older cars, but this computer/sensor crap doesn't make much sense to me. Everything that I know tells me that this is some kind of an ignition and maybe a timing prob. I'm kind of at my wits end. these parts are too expensive to just play the "troubleshoot by replacing" mehtod, not to mention I don't have the money!
Birch, no insults were intended. We've all seen new plug wires be crap out of the box. Many times here. In addition, the basic design of our engines and routing of the wires cause the rear 3 to fail prematurely sometimes. Don't assume your wires are good, and in fact, take it a step further and inspect all 6 spark plugs. You might find the culprit that way. You can rule out a timing issue. Even if the cam or crank sensors fail, it'll put you in default mode. You'll have less power across the board, but no stumbling.
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:33 AM   #18
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Will, don't worry I didn't take offense, sorry I made it sound that way. I admit I don't really know whats going on thats why I'm on here taking suggestions

I try and check my wires tonight, probably be a lot easier at night I'm guessing. I'll come back and let you know how it goes
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Old 11-18-2004, 04:06 PM   #19
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I am almost 2 hours away

Check your PM'*.. maybe we can work something out.


-justin
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Old 11-19-2004, 12:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Even if the cam or crank sensors fail,
My crank sensor failed and showed no codes. It wouldn't stumble or studder it would just die. I don't think its a crank sensor.

JLathem
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