Code 41 Camshaft Sensor & DIC Low Coolant Level
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 363
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From: Toronto, Canada

The Check Engine Light has been going on and off from time to time for the past couple of weeks, but I didn't bother checking it until tonight cause I thought it was my usual Codes 58 & 21 (TPS volts to high). I've only been driving the car a few days a week to and from work, 5 min away.
Tonight I checked the codes and I see a new one (along with the usual 2 above), code 41 Camshaft Sensor Loss of Signal.
The car starts fine, but I had problems starting it, one day (a couple of weeks ago) on my lunch (it started on the second attempt).
I've read some posts on this, how hard is it to replace the magnet properly without the JB weld ?
What is envolved tear down wise ?
How or What should I be checking to make sure the sensor or the magnet is the problem ?
The other problem I've been having lately is the past few times I've drove the car I've seen the msg Low Coolant Level on the DIC.
I checked the Rad & Overflow and they are both full.
Anyone know the proper way to test this sensor ?
What resistances or voltage should the sensor be showing if I check it with a Digital Multi Metre ?
Any help would be great,
Thanks in Advance,
Dutch
Tonight I checked the codes and I see a new one (along with the usual 2 above), code 41 Camshaft Sensor Loss of Signal.
The car starts fine, but I had problems starting it, one day (a couple of weeks ago) on my lunch (it started on the second attempt).
I've read some posts on this, how hard is it to replace the magnet properly without the JB weld ?
What is envolved tear down wise ?
How or What should I be checking to make sure the sensor or the magnet is the problem ?
The other problem I've been having lately is the past few times I've drove the car I've seen the msg Low Coolant Level on the DIC.
I checked the Rad & Overflow and they are both full.
Anyone know the proper way to test this sensor ?
What resistances or voltage should the sensor be showing if I check it with a Digital Multi Metre ?
Any help would be great,
Thanks in Advance,
Dutch
The low coolant sensor is about halfway down on the radiator side tank on the passenger side. When my '92 SSEi sensor failed, I was too cheap to replace the part, and tried removing it and cleaning it. Worked for a while then sent the same false signal. I eventually just unplugged the sensor. Light goes out when you do. Then you check your own coolant level.
Here is a little tool I made from a nail to help unplug the electrical connector and the rubber stopper for plugging the hole if you want to try to clean it.
Here is a little tool I made from a nail to help unplug the electrical connector and the rubber stopper for plugging the hole if you want to try to clean it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada

Thanks for the quick reply
I already bought the part today from the stealer for around $21 Canadian (my cost).
I wanted to know if there is a way to test the old sensor, to make sure that is the problem, although I don't know what else it could be, because the levels are up.
Does the FSM list a test procedure using a multi metre ?
I couldn't find one in Mitchell or in my Haynes manual.
Do you have any info about the other problem with the Cam Sensor ? Proper replacement procedure ?
Thanks,
Dutch
I already bought the part today from the stealer for around $21 Canadian (my cost).
I wanted to know if there is a way to test the old sensor, to make sure that is the problem, although I don't know what else it could be, because the levels are up.
Does the FSM list a test procedure using a multi metre ?
I couldn't find one in Mitchell or in my Haynes manual.
Do you have any info about the other problem with the Cam Sensor ? Proper replacement procedure ?
Thanks,
Dutch
You mean I could have replaced my coolant level sensor for only $21? I thought they were like $40! Well, still - my "fix" cost nothing, and at least kept the light off. 
Code 41 should be the cam sensor circuit. Either the pickup or the magnet. Sometimes the connection. The cam sensor pickup is a really easy change. It is located in a place you cannot see, but is nonetheless, not difficult to change out. Get a mechanic'* mirror and a flashlight. Shine the light on the mirror and look for the sensor at about 7:00 O'Clock under the water pump pulley (see pic below) After removing the electrical connector and removing one 10mm-head bolt, wiggle and pull straight out on the sensor. Now, turn the engine over by hand and use the mirror to look for the interrupter magnet. If you find a complete magnet in the cam gear, install a new pickup. If you find a hole or a broken magnet or a broken piece of plastic, you will need to install a new magnet. I prefer to do the magnets from the inside by removing the timing cover, but then, I have an air impact wrench for the HB bolt and an HB puller, and the right size 6mm bolts, and have done this more than a couple times. Still, I like the idea of locating the missing bits of metal from magnets awol. Chilton'* 28200 should do you OK for r&r of the timing cover if you choose to go that route.

Code 41 should be the cam sensor circuit. Either the pickup or the magnet. Sometimes the connection. The cam sensor pickup is a really easy change. It is located in a place you cannot see, but is nonetheless, not difficult to change out. Get a mechanic'* mirror and a flashlight. Shine the light on the mirror and look for the sensor at about 7:00 O'Clock under the water pump pulley (see pic below) After removing the electrical connector and removing one 10mm-head bolt, wiggle and pull straight out on the sensor. Now, turn the engine over by hand and use the mirror to look for the interrupter magnet. If you find a complete magnet in the cam gear, install a new pickup. If you find a hole or a broken magnet or a broken piece of plastic, you will need to install a new magnet. I prefer to do the magnets from the inside by removing the timing cover, but then, I have an air impact wrench for the HB bolt and an HB puller, and the right size 6mm bolts, and have done this more than a couple times. Still, I like the idea of locating the missing bits of metal from magnets awol. Chilton'* 28200 should do you OK for r&r of the timing cover if you choose to go that route.
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