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Old 02-15-2007, 11:25 AM   #1
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Default Changing alternator bearings

I'm having problems with the alternator bearings. I don't know whether it'* the inner or outter but I figured since i'm going to have it all apart, why not do both. Has anyone ever done this procedure before and if so is there a website that gave you this info. If I'm not mistaken it'* a 140 amp alternator that'* on the 95 SSEi.

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Old 02-15-2007, 12:29 PM   #2
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The inner is a typical thrust bearing, the outer should be a needle bearing similar to the inner rotor bearings on a SC.

I can tell you the most important thing next to the correct part numbers (which I don't have) is going to be even and proper torque on the housing bolts. If it'* not absolutely perfect, you'll smoke your alternator. The torque had to be PERFECT between the 3 housing bolts.

I had an alternator fail early due to this being incorrect.
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Old 02-15-2007, 02:47 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info Will, I'll have to research some more options.
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:04 PM   #4
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Default alt

The other problem is getting replacement parts. You may be able to get the bearings, but try getting a rectifyer bridge for a burned out CS series alt.
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:57 PM   #5
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Default Re: alt

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Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
The other problem is getting replacement parts. You may be able to get the bearings, but try getting a rectifyer bridge for a burned out CS series alt.
Are you saying that mine may already be burned out, or that it may happen after the re & re bearing install?
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:18 PM   #6
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He'* only expressing his problem finding a part for another alternator. Not implying you need or will have that issue.
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Old 02-15-2007, 11:10 PM   #7
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Actually, the Delco CS-130, 130D and 144 all use 'double sealed ball bearings' at both ends, front/back or inner/outer, whetever you like to call it. There is nothing special about either bearing and they can be purchased at any bearing supply house. Beware, do not use bearings “Huncho in Mexico”! (Made in Mexico) Usually, to replace the back bearing, you will need to remove the rotor and the back rubber seal and snap ring (bearing retainer) The bearing can then be knocked out from the front to the back side. Of course, the front side will require removing the pulley, front case and the rotor. It might be better to take it to a starter/alternator shop and let them do it! Here is a cutaway of the CS130.



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Old 02-16-2007, 01:24 AM   #8
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I used Drinkwater Electric Motor Service (or something like that) in Toronto in the past, and they were very good and VERY reasonable.
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Old 02-16-2007, 09:50 AM   #9
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Thanks for the diagram, that'* great. I'm still searching alternatives.
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Old 02-17-2007, 03:24 PM   #10
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Default alt

The rear bearings are known failure spots. They are just too small for the load and heat it see'*. The rectifier bridge also fails after about 50 or 60k. When it fails the diode lets the current go both ways and it shorts to ground. I just rebuilt one using parts from other alternators I had.
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