Car won't start, new starter and alternator.... - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-13-2006, 04:27 AM   #31
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Modern cars have computers and other sensitive electronics to fire the ignition coils and whatnot. Without a properly working electrical system, you can't expect these components to work. There'* electronic ignition, electric fuel pumps, electric radiator cooling fans, and so much more. You definitely need a working battery in a car these days!

And check those battery cables too. Every time I needed battery cables, they didn't get found until after putting in a new battery or alternator and having things work for a few weeks, but then I'd be out somewhere, and my car wouldn't start. Typically when the car was warm and had been running. It'* always fun to get stranded someplace far away from home isn't it? Just check your battery cables for corrosion, okay? Especially the positive cable, as that'* the one that always corrodes up on me.
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Old 12-13-2006, 06:51 AM   #32
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And the corrosion is typically hidden INSIDE the red boots. You can peel them back to look inside.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:38 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by willwren
And the corrosion is typically hidden INSIDE the red boots. You can peel them back to look inside.
Black boot too. And there'* no need to peel them back. If you remove the bolt, the boot comes off easily in one piece. They are slip on booties.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:53 AM   #34
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Peeling may actually be necessary. If corrosion is there, and the boot heated up, it will be partially melted to the cable end from heat caused by resistance.
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Old 12-13-2006, 11:35 AM   #35
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Just a suggestion to actually go through all the steps that the nice gentlemen walked you through here. You may have a running car with a new battery... but if an original problem was not addressed you might just kill this one too. Just a suggestion.
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Old 12-13-2006, 01:57 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Peeling may actually be necessary. If corrosion is there, and the boot heated up, it will be partially melted to the cable end from heat caused by resistance.
x2. We actually had to slit the boot with a utility knife and peel it off like a fillet. The whole cable was caked with corrosion. I wish I had pics.
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Old 12-13-2006, 02:13 PM   #37
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Mine are still melted. It'* posted around here somewhere. I have replacements but haven't installed them yet.




See all the white powder? NONE of it was visible from the outside. That mess is from cleaning it. Just enough to get to work.
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30 minutes later (after cutting the boots apart that had melted together) and cleaning, I was on my way back to work.
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