More often than not a dead battery will still show 12 or more volts. Try jumping it again or charge the battery.

How old is the battery?
Did you check the cables?

I'll chime in too. Corroded battery cables will allow the battery to hold normal VOLTAGE, but will not allow it to produce enough current. You have CLASSIC typical symptoms of this.

Clean all the battery cables at BOTH ends. Everywhere they go. Feed, charge, and grounds. Remove the rubber boots from the battery ends and clean the corrosion out of them too, then put every connection back with some dielctric grease.

thanks for the suggestions fellas. Ill give the battery a good rubdown and charge and see if that works

I appreciate it

That'* what we're here for.

Your odds of success (after charging the battery if necessary) are 99.93%.

Should you fall into the 0.07 percentile, let us know, and we'll take it from there.

the only thing that is getting to me, is it died WHILE running. I didn't think the battery would have anything to do with that...maybe its more than one thing

It does. And this is a classic case. It'* happened to me and about 200 other members here.

Time to get to work.

will do, its good to know that others have had the same problem. I have never experienced a car dying while running and it be the battery. I guess leave it to the Bonnie!

Thanks again

In a normally functioning system, the alternator dumps its extra power into the battery.
In an abnormal system, the alternator cannot supply enough juice so it gets taken from the battery to compensate and once the battery cannot supply enough juice to run things the car will shut down. Just light a flashlight.

This is a very simplified description but should give you the general idea of whats happeneing, esp since you just installed an amp & sub. For example, if you just installed a 1200w rms amp in, that would draw 100a. Throw in 10a per headlight, 5 for wipers, 15 for fan on high, 20 for rear defroster... still think your 130a alternaotr is running your car?

Now add in corrosive resistance into your batter cables and loose alot of voltage just gettting it across 3ft of cable... I think you get the idea.

The engine can die while running and be caused by the battery. The old generators put out a DC voltage and current which coulld sustain the engine still running "in the old days" with lesser current demands.

An alternator puts out alternating current that is then changed to pulsating DC by the diodes within the alternator. The battery, while being charged, also works as a huge capacitor to smooth out the pulsating DC. If the battery is not connected properly, that pulsating DC can get into all the electronic/electrical circuits and cause confusing readings to the system. That can cause the engine to stop. Again, a simplification, but gives the basic idea.

Sixth gearhead on the scene..

When you pull the battery cables (at both ends!) and clean all the connections. Please take the extra moment to remove the rubber boots to inspect the cables underneath them. Frequently corrosion likes to hide under them. Clean and reinstall the boots/cables.

No need to ask why I'm so adamant about checking under the booties...