Car will not start - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-13-2003, 04:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: Car will not start - Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weeg
However, when I put the fuse back I decided to check that all the rest of the fuses and relays were in nice and tight. A couple slid in a little more but one of them seemed to be pretty far so I pushed that one in and made sure all the rest were in good. I then decided to try and restart the car and it started up!!!
I think it'd help if you could identify exactly which fuse that was.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:11 PM   #12
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Default Car will not start - Uodate

I believe the fuse that seemed to be out a little was number 6 - which I think is for the fuel pump and possibly the ICM ??? I hope this helps. I just tried pressing all the fuses as we did Friday night but no luck restarting.

Louis
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Old 10-20-2003, 02:19 PM   #13
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Default Car will not start - Final Update

Turns out it was a bad battery! After giving up I called a local mechanic and he looked at the car, all he kept saying was based on what I kept telling him the symptons were he felt it was a bad battery. So we exchanged the new battery for another new one and all of a sudden the car started every time!!! What I cannot figure out is that even with a bad new battery when I tried to jump start the car I could not get it to start.

Thanks everyone for your input,
Louis
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Old 10-20-2003, 02:21 PM   #14
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Default Re: Car will not start - Final Update

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Originally Posted by Weeg
What I cannot figure out is that even with a bad new battery when I tried to jump start the car I could not get it to start.
That'* because the problem was inside the battery...
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Old 10-21-2003, 02:47 AM   #15
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I've had three different vehicles show me what kinda wierd crap a bad battery will make happen. One car acted like it was constantly flooding, one acted like a bad starter, and the last one just would not run...

It'* amazing how overlooked the battery is in these damned things...
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Old 10-23-2003, 11:53 PM   #16
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The problem that we had with my wife'* 98, is the same - nothing happens when turning the key. Lights come on, but no starting. Then there'* that "security" light.

The dealer says that the key switch on the steering column has an intermittant connection, and the security system is locking us out.

We have not yet replaced the mechanism in the column, but find that putting the key in differently or just turning the key with pressure in different places on the key (while turning) will make it start and run.

Fred
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Old 10-24-2003, 02:06 AM   #17
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Default Re: Car will not start - Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weeg
Thanks for all the input and suggestions regarding the problem. Friday night a friend and I decided to do a little more checking.

First we checked all the battery connections/terminals/wires, the readings were all fine. Then we decided to check the volts that the starter was receiving from the battery. The reading was under 10 volts. We tried to bypass the starter wires with jumper cables to see if possibly the drop in volts was related to the wires. The readings were the still the same. It did not seem as if the starter was getting enough volts upon trying to start.

However we did notice that the battery was emitting a sulfur smell upon trying to start and that there was a bubbling/popping noise coming from inside the battery. All indications pointed to either a bad battery, but the volts read fine. It appears that something was shorting out and that was causing the battery to cook. The bubbling or popping noise of the battery evened occurred when we just tried to turn on the front lights without the key in the ignition!

We then starting going thru the shop manual trying to troubleshoot. The manual said to find the right hand inside passenger side fuse block. It wanted us to pull one of the fuses that would prevent startup but also test whether or not the starter was bad. We pulled the fuse out but the volts/amp readings to the starter indicated that the starter was fine. The shop manual now said to proceed to the next step. However, when I put the fuse back I decided to check that all the rest of the fuses and relays were in nice and tight. A couple slid in a little more but one of them seemed to be pretty far so I pushed that one in and made sure all the rest were in good. I then decided to try and restart the car and it started up!!!

We wanted to be certain however that we had found the cause of the problem. But no matter what we did, we still could not determine which fuse or relay in this fuse block would cause the conditions that the car would not start or give the battery that popping or bubbling noise upon start. We tried pulling out some of the suspected fuses that could have been loose but none would regenerate the condition of the no start.

The car started up three or four times while up on the floor jacks. Thinking that we had possibly "found" the problem we then buttoned everything up, lowered the car off the floor jacks and decided to call it a night. I was also going to drive it all week to see if the problem reoccurred. Well first thing Saturday morning I tried to start the car and it would not start!

I think we have isolated where the cause of the problem is, but we are unsure as to what fuse, relay or short in this area would cause the problem of not starting??? I will have to take the kick panel off later tonight or tomorrow and see if I can find which wire, etc is shorting that could cause the no start.

Any additional help or comments would be appreciated.

Louis
97 Bonneville SLE
AT THIS POINT I WOULD LOOSE MY MIND AND SNAP PROBALLY HAVE AN ANERISM IF IT DIDNT STATRT! lol
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Old 10-24-2003, 02:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmy_wifescar
The problem that we had with my wife'* 98, is the same - nothing happens when turning the key. Lights come on, but no starting. Then there'* that "security" light.

The dealer says that the key switch on the steering column has an intermittant connection, and the security system is locking us out.

We have not yet replaced the mechanism in the column, but find that putting the key in differently or just turning the key with pressure in different places on the key (while turning) will make it start and run.

Fred
If you're willing to sacrifice it, they do make kits to bypass the VATS system. No need for the resistor. Google would be your best bet to find this...
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