car only running when cold out... - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-04-2003, 10:17 AM   #1
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Default car only running when cold out...

okay....I was here last year talking about my 92 bonneville ...you guys gave me alot of help. (changed my name here because I couldnt remember my username and password...thought it was sunflower, but I guess I was wrong) okay.....anyways, I was told my cars problem may be sensors, and all kinds of stuff. My husband changed a few things you guys said but it still had a problem......but heres the kicker. Its been very cold here, under 40 degrees......car runs fine........as soon as it warms up.....like above 40s, 50s, It starts stalling all over again. We had a few nice days a couple months ago, and it stalled on me ...and I realized it had something to do with the weather outside...know what I mean? Does anyone have any ideas?
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Old 02-04-2003, 12:49 PM   #2
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(Why aren't my replies picking up the current Subject line when I post...?)

You need to give us a better description of when it stalls. The most common stalling-when-warm description that I hear about is when the TCC solenoid gets the transmission stuck in high-gear lockup, so the car smoothly dies as you come up to a stop sign.

You put it in Park, the engine restarts instantly, then as soon as you put it in Drive again, *WHOMP* and it'* dead. After a couple tries, it eventually bumps itself free and you can drive off, only to stall again at the next light.

A new TCC solenoid is something like $30 or so. You can unplug the leads going into the side of the transmission to prevent it from engaging and seizing, if that really is the problem, although you're then wasting some gas by not having it functioning. I used to hear about this all the time on the midsize Cutlass Ciera and Buick Century, but not so much on Bonnevilles.
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Old 02-04-2003, 12:59 PM   #3
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okay, I found my first thread ( I explained that I forgot my user name so thats why I have a new one) okay anyways, here it is:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...er=asc&start=0

Hope I did that right. But there really isnt much to tell. Just that it stalls when It wants to (usualy in warmer weather) and it happens while Im driving, not so much at a stop sign or anything. My husband changed two sensors, checked the fuel pump yada yada yada, but I just wondered if maybe the stalling when warm would maybe trigger something to you guys, ya know?
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Old 02-04-2003, 01:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunangel
My husband changed two sensors, checked the fuel pump yada yada yada, but I just wondered if maybe the stalling when warm would maybe trigger something to you guys, ya know?
Which two sensors? The crankshaft sensor, and what else?

Are there any fault codes stored at the moment?

Let'* deal with the specifics like that and see what we can figure out.
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Old 02-04-2003, 01:16 PM   #5
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Okay , the fault code was 17 (which wasnt on the list) and he changed the mass airflow and the throddle position. and the crank shaft wasnt changed, because he basically said that he didnt want to put money into something he wasnt over 50 percent sure about.
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Old 02-04-2003, 02:08 PM   #6
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Pattie! Welcome back! Wish you were here under better circumstances, but these problems are the main reason EVERYONE comes here.

Do this: disconnect your battery for 15 or 20 minutes. Longer is better. After you reconnect it, check for codes again. It should be blank. Now go drive the car and try to get it to stall again. After the first stall, check the codes again. If it comes up 17 again, you're doing that crank sensor. Code 17 is the spark reference circuit.

Do you still have the procedure I gave you last year in the old chat room?

The code procedure is still up in Techinfo!
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Old 02-04-2003, 02:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Pattie! Welcome back! Wish you were here under better circumstances, but these problems are the main reason EVERYONE comes here.

Do this: disconnect your battery for 15 or 20 minutes. Longer is better. After you reconnect it, check for codes again. It should be blank. Now go drive the car and try to get it to stall again. After the first stall, check the codes again. If it comes up 17 again, you're doing that crank sensor. Code 17 is the spark reference circuit.

Do you still have the procedure I gave you last year in the old chat room?

The code procedure is still up in Techinfo!
Thanx for the welcome back yah , I mean I have a new computer too, so I just lost all my bookmarks but I found it again. Okay, see, I really cant do what you just said untill the weather breaks.......because my car has been running fine (thank God to cold temps ) but as soon as it breaks, I'll have him do that. and yah Im pretty sure he kept the stuff I printed out from you guys........if not, I'll check out the techinfo....but yer still stickin on the crank sensor i see :P ....nothin is easy huh?
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Old 02-04-2003, 02:21 PM   #8
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They don't go out often. I know of only 2 people that have had to do this. One is actually still driving his, but it'* not as bad as yours. Code 17 points us in that direction. It'* either the crank sensor, wiring, or PCM. Sensor is most likely.
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