This Car Does Blow... - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-24-2005, 06:38 PM   #21
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My friend is saying i have a shot oil pump is this even a possiblity? Sicne i dotn hear any knockign when i first start it but as it gets warmer and continues to run and the oil starts droppign i hear a nasty knocking and banging going on?
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:02 PM   #22
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Nothing against your friend, but he doesn't seem to know much about motors.

Your oil pump works. Proof is that cold you have pressure. As soon as the motor starts to warm up and expand the space between your rod bearing and crankshaft becomes larger and more oil leaks out instead of building pressure.
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Old 12-25-2005, 05:58 PM   #23
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this happened on both of my chevy corsicas. slowly they would be able to run for less and less time, until eventually they could only be run for about 5 minutes before they stall out and the oill pressure drops to 0.
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Old 12-25-2005, 07:00 PM   #24
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well did u ever fix them and find out why? Im debating weather i should try to get a rebuild or just throw a new motor in. My friend can get me a really low mile one for 2 grand
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:30 PM   #25
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Often it is cheaper/less work to drop a new motor in than to do a proper rebuild. I think 2 large is a bit high for a used motor, but I could be wrong. FYI, unless you plan on doing regular oil changes, you should see if you can get a discount for buying 4 or 5 L67s.
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Old 12-25-2005, 09:41 PM   #26
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good point. I change my oil every 3k and have yet to have any mechanical engine trouble.
My 80 Buick still has the original 2.8L and runs like a charm 25 yrs.
Too bad I have to sell it though.
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Old 12-26-2005, 01:10 AM   #27
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Before the engine even develops any sign of a problem, whynot change the bearings every once in a while? Seems like a good idea.
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Old 12-26-2005, 01:14 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxuriesPremier
well did u ever fix them and find out why? Im debating weather i should try to get a rebuild or just throw a new motor in. My friend can get me a really low mile one for 2 grand

2 grand is way to much. 500-800 is normal going rate
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Old 12-26-2005, 12:36 PM   #29
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Not sure what your friend is talking about...

Starting out with half decent Oil pressure only to have it drop as the engine warns up a bit tells me that your bottom end is toast...

He can say Oil pump if he wants too, But its already too late for that, you have a Rod knock..

Either rebuild it, Buy another motor.... 2K seems expensive to me... I'm not a fan of Autozone at all, but you can get a reman with a warranty for less than that I'm sure... I know a guy that replaced an L36 in his firebird for less than $1000 with a warranty...

You can rebuild the engine, But if you do it you should take the time and do it or have it done right... The crank may be damaged beyond repair and if it is you would have to have a crank kit.... Then all of the rods should be dropped off at the machine shop to be resized...


And for the bearing replacement... I do not consider it a wise choice to do this on a crank that has wear on it, let alone being scarred which I am totally sure it is... The bearing will never last....

Do it right the first time or pay a lot later

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Old 12-26-2005, 01:17 PM   #30
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do it right the first time. Get a shortblock and change that oil.
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