1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Car broke down after the track tonight (Final Update)

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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 03:42 PM
  #31  
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If the bulb stays on when testing fuel injector voltage, it'* not going to spray fuel, obviously...

I'm with Ted on this. If not the wiring to/from the crank sensor, maybe the sensor itself. Maybe a couple of the vanes on the balancer got bent slightly by the belt as it went, and then took out the sensor that way. Can you see those from the top side?
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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It must be pulled. The dust cover will hide the teeth.
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Well, it looks like it will be a while before i can check those so the car will more then likely be towed to the garage and sit next to the black one for a while.

I dont have a HB puller. (also how would i put something in the flywheel to prevent it from spinning? Would i have to pretty pull the motor again?
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 08:43 PM
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Maybe i am not doing this stuff right. I just checked the injectors again and even with the key on the bulb lights and stays lite.
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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That is correct. That is a normal response from an engine that is not cranking. At least in my experience doing the same with a '95 L67. It would normally begin to pulse when it receives a signal from the crank and/or cam sensors, which apparently it'* not getting.

<edit>That was measured with a multimeter though, so it may have just been voltage as compared to engine ground, and not the other terminal...</edit>

There is a plastic access cover for the flywheel on the underside of the car. People usually just jam a pry bar against the teeth and something else, to keep it from turning, or through one of the flexplate holes. Something along those lines.

An impact or very long breaker bar/pipe combo is also highly recommended. With an impact, you might not even need to jam the flywheel.
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TJ'sblackbonne
Maybe i am not doing this stuff right. I just checked the injectors again and even with the key on the bulb lights and stays lite.
Neither my 89 nor 99 come on & pulse till the engine is running. The injectors would be wide open if they have a constant 12 volts to them. Can you try it with the crank sensor unplugged?
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 09:41 PM
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Yea i will try it in the morning and post the results.

I am also going to go over all the wires again just to make sure
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 02:07 AM
  #38  
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You said you plugged in the scantool, No codes?
And did you look at all the main fuses in the engine bay?
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 09:39 AM
  #39  
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Yea, plugged it in and no codes

Yea, checked the fuses, but i am going to go over all the wires again and all the fuses.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Spent some time going over the wires and what not.
What i found.....


No wires are broken

But..
When the belt went it wrapped around the HB, we pulled several strains of several feet out of it. I also found that a bolt on the power steering pump was broken and the pump moves all around. So i dont know if it has been like that (maybe false KR when hitting agaisnt the motor ect) or if when the belt went it torqued that pump and snapped the bolt.


But so far, cleaned out all the belt from the HB and now i have to get the bolt tapped and drilled out of the block and get another on in there.


So anything else to check?? (looks like i may be trying to find a HB puller and pull the HB and check that and the crank sensor) (but i have been told the crank sensor would not prevent start up)
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