Can someone direct me to a replace power steering tutorial? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-23-2008, 12:02 AM   #11
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Check the tension marks on the belt tensioner. I had the squealing, especially on cold mornings over two years ago on the Zilla. My SC tensioner was new, but the ACC tensioner was OEM (factory). I figured it was due anyway.

It fixed my problem. It was horribly old and weak.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Check the tension marks on the belt tensioner. I had the squealing, especially on cold mornings over two years ago on the Zilla. My SC tensioner was new, but the ACC tensioner was OEM (factory). I figured it was due anyway.

It fixed my problem. It was horribly old and weak.
Please forgive my ignorance but can you explain how to do this? Is it something that allows me to tighten to add tension or losen to reduce it? Or if it'* bad it just needs replaced? I know when i put on the new belt yesterday the tensioner still felt strong when I turned it to take the belt off then to put it back on again.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:26 AM   #13
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This is my SC tensioner, which you don't have, but your tensioner will have the same marks.

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(pardon the filth, this was two superchargers and an engine ago, and my tension is off a bit as this pre-dates the addition of an extra idler to support my smaller pulleys)


See the scale on the black part? And the arrow on the aluminum? Ideally, you want the arrow to be closer to the three hashmarks on the right of the scale (your scale may be reversed).

Belt stretch can cause it to be off, but the FSM also calls out for a specific value here, which can be tested with a torque wrench.

Sometimes it can be hard to determine if it'* bad, but it'* one of those things that WILL get weak over time.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
This is my SC tensioner, which you don't have, but your tensioner will have the same marks.


(pardon the filth, this was two superchargers and an engine ago, and my tension is off a bit as this pre-dates the addition of an extra idler to support my smaller pulleys)


See the scale on the black part? And the arrow on the aluminum? Ideally, you want the arrow to be closer to the three hashmarks on the right of the scale (your scale may be reversed).

Belt stretch can cause it to be off, but the FSM also calls out for a specific value here, which can be tested with a torque wrench.

Sometimes it can be hard to determine if it'* bad, but it'* one of those things that WILL get weak over time.
Cool. Thanks for the info. I'll check it out. If the tensioner arrow is outside of the hash marks I would assume that it is bad and needs replaced then?
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:46 AM   #15
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I just ran outside to check real quick with the flashlight and the hashmarks on my tensioner are hidden behind the power steering pulley. I can look in there and see some of the hash marks but I can not see the arrow. hmm
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:46 AM   #16
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In general, yes, the marks should line up with the arrow on the first of the 3 closer lines.

In the pic above, the housing that carries the pulley and the arrow should be rotated clockwise to the next nearest mark.

But that doesn't really answer the whole question. Variances in belt length or belt stretch can have a big effect, and the tensioner can get weak over time. There is no black and white. It'* a combination of factors.

I can tell you on a vehicle of your age, the tensioner is far more likely to be the problem than the PS pump, but I can't gaurantee anything without getting my hands on your car personally.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
In general, yes, the marks should line up with the arrow on the first of the 3 closer lines.

In the pic above, the housing that carries the pulley and the arrow should be rotated clockwise to the next nearest mark.

But that doesn't really answer the whole question. Variances in belt length or belt stretch can have a big effect, and the tensioner can get weak over time. There is no black and white. It'* a combination of factors.

I can tell you on a vehicle of your age, the tensioner is far more likely to be the problem than the PS pump, but I can't gaurantee anything without getting my hands on your car personally.
Yeah, I understand. That'* why it'* so tough to try to explain then get a diagnoses for a "noise" by only a simple explaination and not being able to see or hear it yourself.

Out of curiosity, if the power steering bearings and pulley are bad would there be any other indicators? Since my pump isn't leaking that i know of and seems to work fine sans the squealing (and not even positive it is the origin of the noise) might I assume that the power steering pump isn't the problem? It'* just weird to me because it happens while applying the brakes at low rpms and while turning right. As if the vacuum is being used and causing the noise. But I just don't understand it. I suppose I could check into the tensioner.

If the tensioner is the problem would it be possible to spray WD40 behind the pulley and would the noise quiet down? Same with the PS pump?
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Old 03-23-2008, 01:00 AM   #18
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Bearings would cause noise. Seals would cause lower steering performance. Do you have bearing noise or belt squeak?

Are you leaking?

A weak tensioner causes belt squeak because it can't overcome the resistance of the accessories on that path. You are more likely to suffer from it than a supercharged car (primarily the S1) that splits the load evenly on two belts.

The belt noise isn't from the bearings on the tensioner pulley. It'* from lack of tension. WD-40 (which isn't a lubricant, but a water-displacing solvent hence the WD in the name) won't make any difference other than quiet down belt noise caused by the belt itself.
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Old 03-23-2008, 01:07 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Bearings would cause noise. Seals would cause lower steering performance. Do you have bearing noise or belt squeak?

Are you leaking?

A weak tensioner causes belt squeak because it can't overcome the resistance of the accessories on that path. You are more likely to suffer from it than a supercharged car (primarily the S1) that splits the load evenly on two belts.

The belt noise isn't from the bearings on the tensioner pulley. It'* from lack of tension. WD-40 (which isn't a lubricant, but a water-displacing solvent hence the WD in the name) won't make any difference other than quiet down belt noise caused by the belt itself.
That'* the hard question for me because i can't tell if it'* belt squeal or if it'* bearing squeal. That'* why i asked about the wd40. I don't have a torque wrench but i could borrow my dads to check the tension on the tensioner. Would it hurt to spray wd40 (or a lubricant) on the tensioner pulley to see if that is causing the noise? Or is it just that the tensioer may not be sufficiant and the noise may not be right at the location of the tensioer but rather somewhere else in the belt system due to the low tension?
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:53 PM   #20
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I have a post somewhere around here, I was thinking it was my ps pump was done, havent replaced it yet still looking for a replacement,

I ended up taking my car to the dealer for them to fix since I had no idea were the squealing noise was from, they ended up changing both tensioners, and another idler pulley and the car is good as new (knocking on wood) is there a noise when you accelerate and decelerate?
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