Can someone direct me to a replace power steering tutorial?
Check the tension marks on the belt tensioner. I had the squealing, especially on cold mornings over two years ago on the Zilla. My SC tensioner was new, but the ACC tensioner was OEM (factory). I figured it was due anyway.
It fixed my problem. It was horribly old and weak.
It fixed my problem. It was horribly old and weak.
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Originally Posted by willwren
Check the tension marks on the belt tensioner. I had the squealing, especially on cold mornings over two years ago on the Zilla. My SC tensioner was new, but the ACC tensioner was OEM (factory). I figured it was due anyway.
It fixed my problem. It was horribly old and weak.
It fixed my problem. It was horribly old and weak.
This is my SC tensioner, which you don't have, but your tensioner will have the same marks.

(pardon the filth, this was two superchargers and an engine ago, and my tension is off a bit as this pre-dates the addition of an extra idler to support my smaller pulleys)
See the scale on the black part? And the arrow on the aluminum? Ideally, you want the arrow to be closer to the three hashmarks on the right of the scale (your scale may be reversed).
Belt stretch can cause it to be off, but the FSM also calls out for a specific value here, which can be tested with a torque wrench.
Sometimes it can be hard to determine if it'* bad, but it'* one of those things that WILL get weak over time.

(pardon the filth, this was two superchargers and an engine ago, and my tension is off a bit as this pre-dates the addition of an extra idler to support my smaller pulleys)
See the scale on the black part? And the arrow on the aluminum? Ideally, you want the arrow to be closer to the three hashmarks on the right of the scale (your scale may be reversed).
Belt stretch can cause it to be off, but the FSM also calls out for a specific value here, which can be tested with a torque wrench.
Sometimes it can be hard to determine if it'* bad, but it'* one of those things that WILL get weak over time.
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From: Indiana

Originally Posted by willwren
This is my SC tensioner, which you don't have, but your tensioner will have the same marks.

(pardon the filth, this was two superchargers and an engine ago, and my tension is off a bit as this pre-dates the addition of an extra idler to support my smaller pulleys)
See the scale on the black part? And the arrow on the aluminum? Ideally, you want the arrow to be closer to the three hashmarks on the right of the scale (your scale may be reversed).
Belt stretch can cause it to be off, but the FSM also calls out for a specific value here, which can be tested with a torque wrench.
Sometimes it can be hard to determine if it'* bad, but it'* one of those things that WILL get weak over time.

(pardon the filth, this was two superchargers and an engine ago, and my tension is off a bit as this pre-dates the addition of an extra idler to support my smaller pulleys)
See the scale on the black part? And the arrow on the aluminum? Ideally, you want the arrow to be closer to the three hashmarks on the right of the scale (your scale may be reversed).
Belt stretch can cause it to be off, but the FSM also calls out for a specific value here, which can be tested with a torque wrench.
Sometimes it can be hard to determine if it'* bad, but it'* one of those things that WILL get weak over time.
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From: Indiana

I just ran outside to check real quick with the flashlight and the hashmarks on my tensioner are hidden behind the power steering pulley. I can look in there and see some of the hash marks but I can not see the arrow. hmm
In general, yes, the marks should line up with the arrow on the first of the 3 closer lines.
In the pic above, the housing that carries the pulley and the arrow should be rotated clockwise to the next nearest mark.
But that doesn't really answer the whole question. Variances in belt length or belt stretch can have a big effect, and the tensioner can get weak over time. There is no black and white. It'* a combination of factors.
I can tell you on a vehicle of your age, the tensioner is far more likely to be the problem than the PS pump, but I can't gaurantee anything without getting my hands on your car personally.
In the pic above, the housing that carries the pulley and the arrow should be rotated clockwise to the next nearest mark.
But that doesn't really answer the whole question. Variances in belt length or belt stretch can have a big effect, and the tensioner can get weak over time. There is no black and white. It'* a combination of factors.
I can tell you on a vehicle of your age, the tensioner is far more likely to be the problem than the PS pump, but I can't gaurantee anything without getting my hands on your car personally.
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From: Indiana

Originally Posted by willwren
In general, yes, the marks should line up with the arrow on the first of the 3 closer lines.
In the pic above, the housing that carries the pulley and the arrow should be rotated clockwise to the next nearest mark.
But that doesn't really answer the whole question. Variances in belt length or belt stretch can have a big effect, and the tensioner can get weak over time. There is no black and white. It'* a combination of factors.
I can tell you on a vehicle of your age, the tensioner is far more likely to be the problem than the PS pump, but I can't gaurantee anything without getting my hands on your car personally.
In the pic above, the housing that carries the pulley and the arrow should be rotated clockwise to the next nearest mark.
But that doesn't really answer the whole question. Variances in belt length or belt stretch can have a big effect, and the tensioner can get weak over time. There is no black and white. It'* a combination of factors.
I can tell you on a vehicle of your age, the tensioner is far more likely to be the problem than the PS pump, but I can't gaurantee anything without getting my hands on your car personally.
Out of curiosity, if the power steering bearings and pulley are bad would there be any other indicators? Since my pump isn't leaking that i know of and seems to work fine sans the squealing (and not even positive it is the origin of the noise) might I assume that the power steering pump isn't the problem? It'* just weird to me because it happens while applying the brakes at low rpms and while turning right. As if the vacuum is being used and causing the noise. But I just don't understand it. I suppose I could check into the tensioner.
If the tensioner is the problem would it be possible to spray WD40 behind the pulley and would the noise quiet down? Same with the PS pump?
Bearings would cause noise. Seals would cause lower steering performance. Do you have bearing noise or belt squeak?
Are you leaking?
A weak tensioner causes belt squeak because it can't overcome the resistance of the accessories on that path. You are more likely to suffer from it than a supercharged car (primarily the S1) that splits the load evenly on two belts.
The belt noise isn't from the bearings on the tensioner pulley. It'* from lack of tension. WD-40 (which isn't a lubricant, but a water-displacing solvent hence the WD in the name) won't make any difference other than quiet down belt noise caused by the belt itself.
Are you leaking?
A weak tensioner causes belt squeak because it can't overcome the resistance of the accessories on that path. You are more likely to suffer from it than a supercharged car (primarily the S1) that splits the load evenly on two belts.
The belt noise isn't from the bearings on the tensioner pulley. It'* from lack of tension. WD-40 (which isn't a lubricant, but a water-displacing solvent hence the WD in the name) won't make any difference other than quiet down belt noise caused by the belt itself.
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From: Indiana

Originally Posted by willwren
Bearings would cause noise. Seals would cause lower steering performance. Do you have bearing noise or belt squeak?
Are you leaking?
A weak tensioner causes belt squeak because it can't overcome the resistance of the accessories on that path. You are more likely to suffer from it than a supercharged car (primarily the S1) that splits the load evenly on two belts.
The belt noise isn't from the bearings on the tensioner pulley. It'* from lack of tension. WD-40 (which isn't a lubricant, but a water-displacing solvent hence the WD in the name) won't make any difference other than quiet down belt noise caused by the belt itself.
Are you leaking?
A weak tensioner causes belt squeak because it can't overcome the resistance of the accessories on that path. You are more likely to suffer from it than a supercharged car (primarily the S1) that splits the load evenly on two belts.
The belt noise isn't from the bearings on the tensioner pulley. It'* from lack of tension. WD-40 (which isn't a lubricant, but a water-displacing solvent hence the WD in the name) won't make any difference other than quiet down belt noise caused by the belt itself.
I have a post somewhere around here, I was thinking it was my ps pump was done, havent replaced it yet still looking for a replacement,
I ended up taking my car to the dealer for them to fix since I had no idea were the squealing noise was from, they ended up changing both tensioners, and another idler pulley and the car is good as new (knocking on wood) is there a noise when you accelerate and decelerate?
I ended up taking my car to the dealer for them to fix since I had no idea were the squealing noise was from, they ended up changing both tensioners, and another idler pulley and the car is good as new (knocking on wood) is there a noise when you accelerate and decelerate?


