Can my water pump be going bad? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-01-2005, 08:58 PM   #11
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Yep, that is what is needed, I just found this in the search function. Same problem, same discription in the manuals and someone that found the problem before me wrote the fix....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Echo - you can TEAR that page out of the 97 FSM (book) and throw it away.

In fact, anyone that has a chiltons manual, go to waterpump removal 96-99 and rip that page out and toss it.

They are both the same and they both forgot to mention the the PS pulley is in the way

I guess I better check the search function and see how others have moved the PS pump out of the way to get to the WP.....
Sorry, nick. Thanks for the info...good to know *makes note in FSM *

I believe the PS pump can be unbolted and just moved aside.
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:00 PM   #12
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Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 5:59 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MOS95B wrote:
Water Pump Removal and Installation
96-99 Vin K Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container
3. Remove the accesory drive belt
4. Unfasten the four 8mm water pump pulley bolts, then remove the pulley
5. Remove the four 3/8 in. bolts and four 1/2 in bolts, then remove the water pump from the engine
6. Remove and discard the gasket and thouroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces
To Install:
7. Install a new gasket, the position the water pump over the gasket. Install the retaining bolts, and tighten as follows:
a. Tighten (1) bolts, shown in accompanying figure *dangit, not I gotta turn on the scanner* to 11 ft lbs
b. Tighten (2) bolts to 22 ft lbs
8. Install the water pump pulley and secure with the four 8mm bolts
9. Install the accessory drive belt
10. Connect the negative battery cable
11. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to normal operating temperature. Check for leaks and top off the coolant.




All images (C) 1998 Haynes North America, Inc. and will be deleted once this information has been confirmed useful


I found one issue with those instructions, And I have the exact same manual and came across this problem... The Power steering pump will have to be moved out of the way to be able to remove the last long bolt in the water pump... There will be 2 13mm bolts holding the power steering pump in place, remove them and move the power steering pump back just enough to be able to remove the last waterpump bolt, but don't push the PS pump too far or too hard as you may break the Oil Pressure sending unit that damn near sits behind the pump area...

Also before you remove the belt, breal the bolts on the waterpump pulley loose, don't remove them just break them so they will be easy to remove after the belt comes off...

Good Luck...

And yeah I have replaced a couple waterpumps on the 3800II... It wasn't that bad, easier than it sounds, the gasket cleaning will take longer..
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:09 PM   #13
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Good addition to the write up, nick. Glad you got her done.
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Good addition to the write up, nick. Glad you got her done.
"Got her done", are you nutz, I had a heck of a time getting the last bottom bolt off the WP and then called it quits because of the darkness (I can't see at dusk very well). Anyways, 1 hr so far and now I know about the PS removal and I will get that moved quick, if I get more time than 1 hr tomorrow when I get home, I may get it buttoned up. If not, saturday will be the day.... thanks for your help everyone.....
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Good addition to the write up, nick. Glad you got her done.
"Got her done", are you nutz, I had a heck of a time getting the last bottom bolt off the WP and then called it quits because of the darkness (I can't see at dusk very well). Anyways, 1 hr so far and now I know about the PS removal and I will get that moved quick, if I get more time than 1 hr tomorrow when I get home, I may get it buttoned up. If not, saturday will be the day.... thanks for your help everyone.....
Sorry, again, nick....I thought you had it done. (I am batting 1000 today )

I wish I could come down and help, but my daughters have dance competition this weekend.
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Good addition to the write up, nick. Glad you got her done.
"Got her done", are you nutz, I had a heck of a time getting the last bottom bolt off the WP and then called it quits because of the darkness (I can't see at dusk very well). Anyways, 1 hr so far and now I know about the PS removal and I will get that moved quick, if I get more time than 1 hr tomorrow when I get home, I may get it buttoned up. If not, saturday will be the day.... thanks for your help everyone.....
Sorry, again, nick....I thought you had it done. (I am batting 1000 today )

I wish I could come down and help, but my daughters have dance competition this weekend.
Thanks for the offer but don't worry, I can handle it......
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:07 PM   #17
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Nick, I had talked to Bob quickly at first when the post about not needing to move things was put in. Glad you don't have to move as much as the SC though. Was a pain.

I have a good hint that someone passed on to me. The PS Pump bolts are at 12 and 6 o clock and accessed through the holes in the ps pump pulley. My bolts stayed in the pump or with it and I did not try to remove them. Be careful when putting the pump down as the oil pressure sending unit is right there. I gently put mine down and everything was fine.

When lining it back up.. it'* a pain. Take your time and try to get a bearing of where the hole is before putting the pump in front of it.

Patience (which you seem to have plenty of) are you best bet.

EDIT: Possible the problems we are having where the book doesn't give the full information is due to the 97 manual being a transition book. In the front it mentions that they were mid change of rewriting the way the FSM'* were written and categorized. Not that it helps..but I saw that same type of thing regarding my WP and in another area I did find the real procedure.
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Nick, I had talked to Bob quickly at first when the post about not needing to move things was put in. Glad you don't have to move as much as the SC though. Was a pain.

I have a good hint that someone passed on to me. The PS Pump bolts are at 12 and 6 o clock and accessed through the holes in the ps pump pulley. My bolts stayed in the pump or with it and I did not try to remove them. Be careful when putting the pump down as the oil pressure sending unit is right there. I gently put mine down and everything was fine.

When lining it back up.. it'* a pain. Take your time and try to get a bearing of where the hole is before putting the pump in front of it.

Patience (which you seem to have plenty of) are you best bet.

EDIT: Possible the problems we are having where the book doesn't give the full information is due to the 97 manual being a transition book. In the front it mentions that they were mid change of rewriting the way the FSM'* were written and categorized. Not that it helps..but I saw that same type of thing regarding my WP and in another area I did find the real procedure.
your discription is a little bit differant, you say that you put your PS down and others have said to slide theirs out of the way!!!!
I would hate to be waiting to slide it and the darn ps falls on the Oil Pressure sending unit, that could scare the daylights out of me.
Any other real world experiances with this removal?
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Old 12-02-2005, 12:35 PM   #19
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Default ps pump

never did my 96 but just did the 90 last week.
All the bolts are easily accessable. The manual was probably not updated for K motors.
Your 97 ps pump will have to be moved. Try using a bungy cord to tie it up so you don't damage the sensor.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:25 PM   #20
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Once the 2 13 mm bolts are remove from the pump it only needs to be moved a couple of inches, if that.... The dealership broke my oil pressure sending unit for me BTW... I think that was the last time they ever touched my car

I will have to dummy up all of my pics, and do a couple of tech info'* on the L36 and LN3 with pics....

Nick, let us know how it all goes...

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