He already told you the info.... I think you are already on vacation...

he had to redneck it to keep it cold. There is apparently a fault or something causing it to default to hot.

Check out the pics though. Looks like he was able to remove the metal support that keeps us from getting to the actuator.

Boosty:
Am I looking at the wrong pix? Looks like that infernal brace is still present in the images I looked at.

If I were a bettin' man, I'd put my money on the air mix actuator. Chances are the plastic gear is split enough that it'* slipping intermittently on the serrated shaft. Boreas can verify this easily by trying to manually move the actuator arm (on the motor). If it can be moved without a Herculean effort, it'* toast.

I agree. I believe what is happening is upon commanding cold, the gear is not allowing the door to travel properly to full cold and restetting to default of full hot.

If manually "holding" the airmix door in the cold position provides cold air, then the actuator is bad or the door is binding.

I will provide more data later on tonight after my redneck fix. Before the fix, after a while of driving, cool air would begin to come out only after 15 minutes. But when I would cycle the car and it would do that 50-second test thing the next time I started the car, and I see taht the actuator has physically been moved all the way to the left by the actuator it blows mild air only. Not as cool as when I turned off the car, and that would only be a couple minutes of off time, like mayby 5.

After the redneck fix and I cycle the car, It still blows miild initially but it will turn cold after 15 minutes. So same behavior before the fix, except I dont have to put up with hot air for the first 50 seconds of the self-test.

When I messed around with the door to rig it, I was able to swing it back and fourth pretty easily. I noticed that it had a spring action before, but that might have been because the metal controller rod was still on it. I was able to swing that thing all the way back between right and left and nothing seemed out of the ordinary.

To summarize, I believe the actuator is still good. When I manually shove the air mix door all the way to the left it does not blow cold, only mild air. It will begin to blow cold air only after 15 minutes of operation. The redneck fix is strictly to eliminate the 50-seconds of hot air blowing in and has not solved my particular problem.

I didnt remove anything except the glove box, what you saw was just a well-placed camera shot with zoom. But I would be interested if I could remove that damn metal so I can just go ahead and replace everything myself.

You can replace everything yourself...but from underneath.

SSE Motorhead aka Stan did a great write up. (speaking of which...I think we are awaiting the latest revision to put in techinfo...cough cough. .)

Man, you guys never let up, do ya? If I wasn't spending so much time goofing off here at BC, I'd have the latest version posted.

Boreas, could you move the air mix door with the air mix actuator still attached? If so, that motor is hosed. As for the 15 minute delay in getting cold air, I'm not sure what'* up wi' that. Something amiss in the air conditioning system itself, maybe. Or could it be that the HCAV programmer is still trying to calibrate even though the door is disconnected so it'* not engaging the compressor? But not for 15 minutes?...that seems a bit excessive...