Brakes questions - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-26-2007, 01:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whostens
Thanks Dad. If I had the option of parking it I would. Normally I would have the convienience of driving other cars. I know it'* a little risky, but I do what I gotta do. SO unless you have the 60 bucks that you want to donate to me so I can get them professionally bled or you have a car that I can borrow until I get it done. Ill have to take my chances. Besides, they aren't THAT bad. lol.

As far as the downshifting, goes I would really like a sound off on why you would not do this, no different then downshifting a manual. We can't all drive like grannies.
were just tryin to help, and offer best advice. not parent you but, there was no direspect given or meant, when bob and i recomended bleeding, asap. so on that note no disrespect ruturned would be appreciated.

but any way, if a second person is the issue for bleeding, then check this out. materials would be far less than 60. but if you could find a helper, bleeding would only cost you a bottle of dot 3.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...er=asc&start=0

if the 1 man bleeder is out of the question, feel free to ask if you have any questions on bleeding at home, if ur willing to tackle it, that is.



and downshifting in an automatic is NOT the same as a manual trans. to be honest, i dont know what it will do or damage, but ive always been told to NEVER shift an automatic through each gear, and to NEVER downshift.
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Old 12-26-2007, 02:25 PM   #12
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I know that I need to bleed it ASAP. It was the park it comment, that got to me a little bit. I have the one man bleeder kit already. When I had time to do it, it was very cold. now I am at work. Hopefully I can bleed it out this weekend.

Other than start at the R/R, then L/R, R/F, and L/F are there any other special instructions you might have ? The resivoir went nearly dry when I had the leak. This is directed to sam.
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Old 12-26-2007, 02:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whostens
I know that I need to bleed it ASAP. It was the park it comment, that got to me a little bit. I have the one man bleeder kit already. When I had time to do it, it was very cold. now I am at work. Hopefully I can bleed it out this weekend.

Other than start at the R/R, then L/R, R/F, and L/F are there any other special instructions you might have ? The resivoir went nearly dry when I had the leak. This is directed to sam.
do you have the 5 dollar bleeder kit, with the lil bottle and nylon tubing? bc i believe you still need a second person to pump the pedal with those.

the order you stated is correct. only advice i would give is to break the bleeders loose, before you actually start bleeding. and dont force em. the last thing you want to do is break one of the bleeders in the wc or caliper. if it feel like its frozen, (use best judgment) use heat and pb blaster. dont just turn harder.
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Old 12-26-2007, 02:40 PM   #14
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Alll at once ?
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Old 12-26-2007, 02:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whostens
Alll at once ?
No, break them all loose first, then close them and open each in sequence. I concur on the use of PB Blaster. Wear a mask, it'* nasty stuff but works like a charm.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:30 PM   #16
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Not really too off topic, but I'd like to know exactly what downshifting does to the transmission as well. I've heard not to do it, and I guess it makes some sense because that probably puts some extra load on the clutches, but what if you're going down hill and need to downshift?
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:41 AM   #17
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I started a whole new topic on this ...

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...008607#1008607
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:15 PM   #18
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Default Re: Brakes ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whostens
...The fitting broke off the line at the ABS pump. .... I actually had to drill the old line out. ....use lots of lubrication, I used penetrant spray ..... I then rejoined the lines with a compression fitting.
Sorry, I did not see this earlier, but...

Unless it will be immediately flushed out with clean brake fluid, brake systems should never see petroleum based lubricants like PB, and certainly not lots of it. The rubber parts will be damaged and can fail catastrophically.

Compression fittings should NEVER be used with brake lines. Flare fittings and steel lines are used because they are designed to withstand the high pressures (3000 psi +) that can be developed. Compression fittings are not designed to withstand as high a pressure. That'* why they are not specified and used in brake systems. You need to replace the compression fitting with the proper type of fitting. You may need to rent or buy a double or bubble flaring tool, but that is way better than losing your brakes.

Brake bleeding instructions here:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=90310
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