Brakes questions
12-26-2007, 12:55 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by Whostens
Thanks Dad. If I had the option of parking it I would. Normally I would have the convienience of driving other cars. I know it'* a little risky, but I do what I gotta do. SO unless you have the 60 bucks that you want to donate to me so I can get them professionally bled or you have a car that I can borrow until I get it done. Ill have to take my chances. Besides, they aren't THAT bad. lol.
As far as the downshifting, goes I would really like a sound off on why you would not do this, no different then downshifting a manual. We can't all drive like grannies.
As far as the downshifting, goes I would really like a sound off on why you would not do this, no different then downshifting a manual. We can't all drive like grannies.
but any way, if a second person is the issue for bleeding, then check this out. materials would be far less than 60. but if you could find a helper, bleeding would only cost you a bottle of dot 3.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...er=asc&start=0
if the 1 man bleeder is out of the question, feel free to ask if you have any questions on bleeding at home, if ur willing to tackle it, that is.
and downshifting in an automatic is NOT the same as a manual trans. to be honest, i dont know what it will do or damage, but ive always been told to NEVER shift an automatic through each gear, and to NEVER downshift.
12-26-2007, 01:25 PM
#12
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I know that I need to bleed it ASAP. It was the park it comment, that got to me a little bit. I have the one man bleeder kit already. When I had time to do it, it was very cold. now I am at work. Hopefully I can bleed it out this weekend.
Other than start at the R/R, then L/R, R/F, and L/F are there any other special instructions you might have ? The resivoir went nearly dry when I had the leak. This is directed to sam.
Other than start at the R/R, then L/R, R/F, and L/F are there any other special instructions you might have ? The resivoir went nearly dry when I had the leak. This is directed to sam.
12-26-2007, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Whostens
I know that I need to bleed it ASAP. It was the park it comment, that got to me a little bit. I have the one man bleeder kit already. When I had time to do it, it was very cold. now I am at work. Hopefully I can bleed it out this weekend.
Other than start at the R/R, then L/R, R/F, and L/F are there any other special instructions you might have ? The resivoir went nearly dry when I had the leak. This is directed to sam.
Other than start at the R/R, then L/R, R/F, and L/F are there any other special instructions you might have ? The resivoir went nearly dry when I had the leak. This is directed to sam.
the order you stated is correct. only advice i would give is to break the bleeders loose, before you actually start bleeding. and dont force em. the last thing you want to do is break one of the bleeders in the wc or caliper. if it feel like its frozen, (use best judgment) use heat and pb blaster. dont just turn harder.
12-26-2007, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Whostens
Alll at once ?
12-26-2007, 09:30 PM
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Not really too off topic, but I'd like to know exactly what downshifting does to the transmission as well. I've heard not to do it, and I guess it makes some sense because that probably puts some extra load on the clutches, but what if you're going down hill and need to downshift?
12-27-2007, 09:41 AM
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12-27-2007, 12:15 PM
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Re: Brakes ...
Originally Posted by Whostens
...The fitting broke off the line at the ABS pump. .... I actually had to drill the old line out. ....use lots of lubrication, I used penetrant spray ..... I then rejoined the lines with a compression fitting.
Unless it will be immediately flushed out with clean brake fluid, brake systems should never see petroleum based lubricants like PB, and certainly not lots of it. The rubber parts will be damaged and can fail catastrophically.
Compression fittings should NEVER be used with brake lines. Flare fittings and steel lines are used because they are designed to withstand the high pressures (3000 psi +) that can be developed. Compression fittings are not designed to withstand as high a pressure. That'* why they are not specified and used in brake systems. You need to replace the compression fitting with the proper type of fitting. You may need to rent or buy a double or bubble flaring tool, but that is way better than losing your brakes.
Brake bleeding instructions here:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=90310
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