At times like this I wish we had a "Bonneville Club Road Team" that could make site visits to members with sick cars, like this one. Wish I could take a look at this car, but I'm in Illinois...

Appreciate it man. Just tell me if it worth it to buy my own tools, such as scan tool,wrenches I don't know what else? I have wiliness to do it on my own, but have a limited knowlegde at this time. Maybe somebody can recomend good manuals with pictures and so on...

Everybody has their favorite tools and different recommendations about what to start with. A scan tool is not cheap (for the 1994 and up model years), and if you have a friendly store that will retrieve codes for you, you might not need to buy one right away. For a lot of other repairs, well, you don't need a scan tool to tell you that your water pump is leaking or a head gasket is blown.

Personally, I would order the factory service manuals for your car; just use the form in the back of your owner'* manual. Those will have directions for _everything_ (even stuff like reupholstering your seats), and even if you don't want to do some repair yourself, you can loan the books to the repair place that does the work for you. (Make sure you get them back again!)

For repairs you do yourself, buy the tools as you need them. My favorite is Sears Craftsman, but others here may prefer Snap-On, Husky or other brands. Go with whichever is most available in your area and gives a good warranty -- hand tools in particular should be guaranteed forever.

In particular, buy a good torque wrench and learn how to use it. Practically every major component on the car has a specific torque setting for its fasteners listed in the service manual, and some can be damaged if not installed properly. In your case, I'm wondering whether the repair guys ever properly torqued either your cylinder heads or your brake rotors, since you seem to be having continuous problems with both. There is no substitute for doing something the way the car'* engineers say it should be done. Good luck and have fun...

Just a quick update. Shacking of the car when stopping is fixed! One pair of GM rotors was replaiced by another and it worked. Car is stopping smothly even on 95mph.
I guess not all GM part are so great??!

For the check engine light I'm goint to open separate forum , cause it'* a completely different story... :?

Actually not a bad IDEA !!

True...True

I'm sure acg_ssei and others would've make good money and I would save some money and time, plus will learn something along the way which is priceless

GM rotors on the Bonneville are prone to warpage. Count on it happening again until you change brands.

Bonne' RMG...has a good ring to it...doesn't it..

Well consider me your North Columbus, Ohio
chapter..if you want...

ADMINISTRATOR...maybe separate forum for on-site maintenance assistance???

Just a thought..I would be interested

Well, yes... But I would also say that they are more likely to warp if the wheels are just slammed on with an impact wrench, and the lug nuts are not torqued properly by hand to the right setting. I always do mine by hand with a torque wrench and have had no problems.

More to the point: I've worked on a few GM cars that came in with obvious warped rotors, but was able to lessen if not eliminate the warpage by just retorquing the lug nuts properly. Not all the warpage is permanent all the time...

Some are more prone than others. My car was babied by a retired Engineer for most of it'* life, but they still warped. We've had dozens of sets go this way here in the last year. They stop well for a big car, but they can't dissipate the heat as quickly. A better rotor design does alot to fix this. The right choice of pads will also eliminate brake fade, dust, and noise.