Bogged out. Now won't start.
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Bogged out. Now won't start.
I have a '95 SEEi and was driving around town today and the engine kept bogging down(losing power). It only lasted a few seconds at a time and then power came right back. Then I parked at a store and when I came back out the car wouldn't start at all.
It turns over nice and quick and there is spark at the plugs. It acts like it'* not getting any fuel, so I checked the valve on the fuel rail and there is definitely some pressure when the car is turning over. My brother suggested that maybe the fuel pump is simply weak and not pumping enough fuel to start the engine.
Is there anything specific to my car that I might want to check? Or does anyone have an idea what the likely culprit is?
Thanks much.
It turns over nice and quick and there is spark at the plugs. It acts like it'* not getting any fuel, so I checked the valve on the fuel rail and there is definitely some pressure when the car is turning over. My brother suggested that maybe the fuel pump is simply weak and not pumping enough fuel to start the engine.
Is there anything specific to my car that I might want to check? Or does anyone have an idea what the likely culprit is?
Thanks much.
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Check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders, this will help eliminate the ICM & coils.
Check for fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a 194 light bulb or node light. Just connect the light to a fuel injector wire & watch for the bulb to pulse as someone cranks it over.
Also disconnect the battery cables, remove the bolts & rubber boots, clean any corrosion off the cable ends. Reassemble with dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Let us know what you find.
Check for fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a 194 light bulb or node light. Just connect the light to a fuel injector wire & watch for the bulb to pulse as someone cranks it over.
Also disconnect the battery cables, remove the bolts & rubber boots, clean any corrosion off the cable ends. Reassemble with dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Let us know what you find.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders, this will help eliminate the ICM & coils.
Check for fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a 194 light bulb or node light. Just connect the light to a fuel injector wire & watch for the bulb to pulse as someone cranks it over.
Also disconnect the battery cables, remove the bolts & rubber boots, clean any corrosion off the cable ends. Reassemble with dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Let us know what you find.
Check for fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a 194 light bulb or node light. Just connect the light to a fuel injector wire & watch for the bulb to pulse as someone cranks it over.
Also disconnect the battery cables, remove the bolts & rubber boots, clean any corrosion off the cable ends. Reassemble with dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Let us know what you find.
There is pulse at the fuel injectors.
Battery cables cleaned.
Still won't start. =\
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Wow - those three things make up about 95% of the no start problems.
Fuel rail should have about 40 lbs of pressure. Best checked with gauge but did it seem to have a lot of pressure when you pressed the valve in?
Have you looked at the plugs ? Wet or Dry?
Fuel rail should have about 40 lbs of pressure. Best checked with gauge but did it seem to have a lot of pressure when you pressed the valve in?
Have you looked at the plugs ? Wet or Dry?
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Wow - those three things take make up about 95% of the no start problems.
Fuel rail should have about 40 lbs of pressure. Best checked with gauge but did it seem to have a lot of pressure when you pressed the valve in?
Have you looked at the plugs ? Wet or Dry?
Fuel rail should have about 40 lbs of pressure. Best checked with gauge but did it seem to have a lot of pressure when you pressed the valve in?
Have you looked at the plugs ? Wet or Dry?
As for the pressure from feel, it definitely sprays out hard enough to coat the back of the engine compartment(and my hand) in fuel with a quick depression of the valve. But I wouldn't know if that'* 5lbs or 40. Also, it only has pressure when the engine is being cranked. Isn't it supposed to have pressure always since it'* an electric fuel pump?
Edit: No codes from the computer.
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Originally Posted by Bonneville94V688
How many miles are on the car? This is a Important one we need to know.
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When the key is turned to the run position the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds to prime the fuel rail. That'* long enough to build pressure & should hold that pressure for several minutes. When you get the gauge make sure it'* holding pressure. Fuel pump should run continuously while car is being cranked.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
When the key is turned to the run position the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds to prime the fuel rail. That'* long enough to build pressure & should hold that pressure for several minutes. When you get the gauge make sure it'* holding pressure. Fuel pump should run continuously while car is being cranked.
Thanks for the assistance guys.