Bogged out. Now won't start. - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-19-2007, 03:52 AM   #1
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Default Bogged out. Now won't start.

I have a '95 SEEi and was driving around town today and the engine kept bogging down(losing power). It only lasted a few seconds at a time and then power came right back. Then I parked at a store and when I came back out the car wouldn't start at all.

It turns over nice and quick and there is spark at the plugs. It acts like it'* not getting any fuel, so I checked the valve on the fuel rail and there is definitely some pressure when the car is turning over. My brother suggested that maybe the fuel pump is simply weak and not pumping enough fuel to start the engine.

Is there anything specific to my car that I might want to check? Or does anyone have an idea what the likely culprit is?

Thanks much.
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Old 05-19-2007, 10:23 AM   #2
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Check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders, this will help eliminate the ICM & coils.
Check for fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a 194 light bulb or node light. Just connect the light to a fuel injector wire & watch for the bulb to pulse as someone cranks it over.
Also disconnect the battery cables, remove the bolts & rubber boots, clean any corrosion off the cable ends. Reassemble with dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Let us know what you find.
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Old 05-19-2007, 01:54 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders, this will help eliminate the ICM & coils.
Check for fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a 194 light bulb or node light. Just connect the light to a fuel injector wire & watch for the bulb to pulse as someone cranks it over.
Also disconnect the battery cables, remove the bolts & rubber boots, clean any corrosion off the cable ends. Reassemble with dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Let us know what you find.
All three front plugs are firing.

There is pulse at the fuel injectors.

Battery cables cleaned.

Still won't start. =\
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:07 PM   #4
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If you don't have access to one, get a fuel pressure tester and check what the fuel pressure is.
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:12 PM   #5
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Wow - those three things make up about 95% of the no start problems.
Fuel rail should have about 40 lbs of pressure. Best checked with gauge but did it seem to have a lot of pressure when you pressed the valve in?
Have you looked at the plugs ? Wet or Dry?
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Wow - those three things take make up about 95% of the no start problems.
Fuel rail should have about 40 lbs of pressure. Best checked with gauge but did it seem to have a lot of pressure when you pressed the valve in?
Have you looked at the plugs ? Wet or Dry?
The plugs were dry and medium brown like they should be. I'm waiting for my brother to find his fuel pressure tester, so we can go back and test that.

As for the pressure from feel, it definitely sprays out hard enough to coat the back of the engine compartment(and my hand) in fuel with a quick depression of the valve. But I wouldn't know if that'* 5lbs or 40. Also, it only has pressure when the engine is being cranked. Isn't it supposed to have pressure always since it'* an electric fuel pump?

Edit: No codes from the computer.
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Old 05-19-2007, 03:04 PM   #7
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How many miles are on the car? This is a Important one we need to know.
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Old 05-19-2007, 03:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonneville94V688
How many miles are on the car? This is a Important one we need to know.
139k miles. I bought it 6 weeks ago and it came with all the documents that it was well cared for over the last 12 years. The timing belt was replaced at 114k miles. Every oil change was done on time. There is tons of paperwork if you need to know if anything else was repaired.
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Old 05-19-2007, 03:10 PM   #9
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When the key is turned to the run position the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds to prime the fuel rail. That'* long enough to build pressure & should hold that pressure for several minutes. When you get the gauge make sure it'* holding pressure. Fuel pump should run continuously while car is being cranked.
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Old 05-19-2007, 03:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
When the key is turned to the run position the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds to prime the fuel rail. That'* long enough to build pressure & should hold that pressure for several minutes. When you get the gauge make sure it'* holding pressure. Fuel pump should run continuously while car is being cranked.
That makes sense. Unfortunately, the car broke down 30 miles from home, so we have to keep going back to check this stuff. I will respond again in a couple hours when I've checked the pressure.

Thanks for the assistance guys.
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