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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-25-2007, 11:56 AM   #1
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I have recently installed two new body mounts on the rear of the front subframe on my 93. I replaced the lower rubber, cup and bolt as the old cup was rusted through. I bought the new parts from the dealer, and they just don't seem to be right. They don't look as compressed as the old ones and I am getting tons of movement that I can feel on the floor inside when I am driving. The new rubber is also creaking on the floor and its driving me nuts. I didn't put them on however I had my brother install them. I am wondering if I should try and tighten them more? I am feeling like I need to find some old ones in good shape and put those on instead. Thanks for any help and I will post a pic or two when I get a chance.
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:05 PM   #2
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New or old...they shouldn't creak and you shouldn't feel movement.

Check your brothers work
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:21 PM   #3
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Holes in your subframe may be wallered out. If your frame is bad, new ones can creak, squeak and pop.
This is the frame off my 93. The isolators should have almost a press fit into the sockets in the frame.


I discovered how common this problem was when I tried to find a replacement engine cradle frame. I have seen this problem on like 4~5 cars (at the U-pull type yards here, frames are laying on the ground after people take engine/trans.)

I was not able to find a frame without rotted sockets so I picked the best one and repaired it. I ended up having some custom stainless steel washers made to fit the isolators and welded them in place.



I talked to a GM service tech once and he said it is a bear to extract the old ones. On the few sockets I found that were good, I had to use a BFH & chisel to get the isolators out. On the ones where the subframe holes were rotted or the isolator casing was gone, you could just yank the isolator out by hand.

When I discovered my problem, I just put new isolators in to get by until I got around to doing the subframe. The middle one would squeak going over bumps until the winter salt came. When I had the frame off, I saw that the isolator casing on this one had rusted and it locked itself in place. The rear ones would pop & shift around a lot - it only got worse with time.
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Old 07-31-2007, 12:00 AM   #4
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You have to put A LOT of foot lbs on them. its something like 100+flbs

They might not be tight enough

all i know is i took my 1/2" drive socket and wrench and pulled as hard as i could with just that and they do not seem to move at all.

But Roadrunner is also right. one of my holes on the sub frame looked like his. but 80% of it was still holding well so i said F it theres 5 others there
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:50 AM   #5
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I agree, and some of the area around my pass. one is gone. I still have not gotten a chance to tighten tthem yet. I have been very busy moving and stuff. I am gonna try and do it this week. I will post back possibly with pics. when it'* done.
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