Blower motor replacement? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-16-2005, 08:45 PM   #11
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Just make sure it doesn't melt the wires and connector like mine did

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Old 11-16-2005, 08:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Just make sure it doesn't melt the wires and connector like mine did


It won't get the chance.
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Just make sure it doesn't melt the wires and connector like mine did


It won't get the chance.
Mine just got slower and slower and slower....


LOL

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Old 11-17-2005, 12:25 AM   #14
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Mine is making a knocking at level 1 and a VERY loud blowing sound along with ALOT of creaking at 2 and 3. So I am also contemplating this job. My friend has 3 Olds 88'* in his yard all newer than my Bonny and way less miles maybe I will just give hime a couple 10' and pull one of those.
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Old 11-17-2005, 08:49 AM   #15
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Bill...I think the key here is it feels good to beat up on the motor. Once you replace it, keep it around for a while. During any frustration..give it a whack.

Looks like it'* not too bad of a job. Like Don said check those wires and connector. May be worthwhile to add a little dielectric while you are putting it back together.
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:53 AM   #16
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Actually, the blower on the H bodies is a breeze compared to most cars. Really in a good spot compared to almost all other cars.

I won't talk about my Honda. It'* not supposed to be possible to do it on an AC equipped civic of my generation without pulling the evap core and evacuating the system. But I did it.

We're lucky.
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Old 11-17-2005, 02:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I won't talk about my Honda. It'* not supposed to be possible to do it on an AC equipped civic of my generation without pulling the evap core and evacuating the system. But I did it.
I hate working on Hondas. :( Alternators, starters, blowers, timing covers in impossible locations - as though they did not consider service at all. I much prefer working on Toyotas -- not always easy, but way better designed for service.

And now.... THAR SHE BLOWS! Changed out the motor this AM. Hadn't realized that the old one had gotten *..l..o..w..e..r..too. The new one runs way faster in all speed positions. The old one was the original Rochester with a 5/2/95 production date - just wore out.
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Old 11-17-2005, 03:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I won't talk about my Honda. It'* not supposed to be possible to do it on an AC equipped civic of my generation without pulling the evap core and evacuating the system. But I did it.
I hate working on Hondas. :( Alternators, starters, blowers, timing covers in impossible locations - as though they did not consider service at all. I much prefer working on Toyotas -- not always easy, but way better designed for service.

And now.... THAR SHE BLOWS! Changed out the motor this AM. Hadn't realized that the old one had gotten *..l..o..w..e..r..too. The new one runs way faster in all speed positions. The old one was the original Rochester with a 5/2/95 production date - just wore out.
Ha ha.... Glad you got it changed out... Mine was the original too... 12/94

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Old 11-17-2005, 06:07 PM   #19
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A couple weeks ago my wife'* 2001 Grand Prix blower motor resistor failed. I knew, because it worked on 4 and 5, but not on 1, 2, or 3. Read the process on ClubGP, it seemed easy enough. Pulled the blower motor from over the passenger footwell, but DANG there was no way to get a socket on the two bolt/screws on the blower resistor in the back, they were literally covered over by the floor of the car. I tried and tried, and eventually just gave up and dropped the car off at my dealer and let them do it. Cost a lot, but man, there was NO WAY to get that thing out. The blower motor came out easy enough though. Just another reason to really like my Bonneville, I'll never have to deal with the crazy location of the blower in the Grand Prix.
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Old 11-17-2005, 06:52 PM   #20
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Yeah, it was a really easy job. To make this post useful for people searching for the r&r method....

Check for bad motor by unplugging connector on motor and setting controls for high speed fan
connect test light across terminals to see if power is getting to the motor
if power is getting to motor, and motor is not working properly (e.g., requires whacking to get it to work), its almost certainly bad. so....

remove strut brace (13 mm x 4 nuts or bolts)
remove engine cover (remove oil fill tube front and unsnap rear)
unclip O2 sensor connector and fuel lines connector from rear bracket (needlenose pliers)
remove rear bracket from rear cylinder head (13 mm x 2 nuts)
remove rubber cooling tube (heat with hair dryer if cold to prevent cracking)
remove bolts attaching motor (7 mm x 5)
remove insulating cover from motor (if your car has one)
gently move fuel lines out of the way and pull motor up and out
carefully remove rubber gasket from old motor; install on new motor
remove foam gasket from electrical connector, install on new motor

reverse to install; adding dielectric grease to electical connector
enjoy hot air if winter or cold air if summer

BTW, following the factory service manual procedure to test for a bad blower motor resulted in a waste of about two hours time. Why start by backprobing the blower relay (which is pretty much inaccessable!) when you can just test for power at the motor connector?
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