get your battery and alternator tested.a few weeks ago, my battery was dying which fried my voltage regulator so i had to get a new battery and alternator.

That doesn't sound right. If your going to autozone you minus well ask one of the workers if they could check your alternator (since they do that stuff for free and all).

Batteries and Alts have a habit of going in pairs. A weak battery will kill an alt, and a bad alt can kill a battery.

If either is over 2 years old, plan on the pair.

I just had to replace my battery and I think now the alt is not doing its job. My volts are below 14. So I agree with the group to get both checked. I think my alt is still under warranty.

Tracy, under low-load conditions when the battery has a good charge, 13.5-13.8 is acceptable. Just keep an eye on it for now unless the warranty is close to expiring.

Also check the status of your battery cables, especially the postive cable. Look for corrosion at the battery terminal. If you have heavy corrosion there it is likely that the length of your cable is also corroded and will need to be replaced. With a good battery and alternator but corroded cable, you'll get undervoltage readings, headlights dimming when you use turn signals, radio, etc., and your car won't want to crank when the engine is warm.

Well-said, Bugsi. We see probably 3-5 cars a month here with battery connection/cable corrosion problems. Check each end of EVERY cable.

Heat is the main killer of batteries as well, if it freezes up, its undercharged, and now hooped. My alternator is cooked as well, but my optima will never freeze.
Just some other info.