1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Bad things just keep happening to me.

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Old 06-27-2005, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
My guess is that the engine is savable, but will need a full tear down.......
yeap it would be a nice project for bonniefest i got the parts
Old 06-27-2005, 11:59 PM
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so what let the antifreeze leak out?
Old 06-28-2005, 12:00 AM
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It knocks because it it'* to hot. The dieseling sound is from this as well. Your motor is so hot inside, that it'* prematurely firing. Your computer probably can't even pull enough timing to save itself.

Pull the stat, and run around the block.
Old 06-28-2005, 12:03 AM
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Hey all...I'm on the phone with Steve....he said the petcock was loose, missing or out. Kenn ran one over to him. They filled it up...steve let it warm up a bit and started down the road. It started knocking and losing power w/in a 1/2 block.

From talking to him it sounds like it may have gotten so hot it did warp a head or something. Coolant temp shot up quick and tons of noise.

He'* going to bring it to a mechanic and have it looked at. Soon he will be back on the road oppressing the N/A'*
Old 06-28-2005, 12:25 AM
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Steve... I know I'm joining in a little late but could you have put the T-stat in upside down?? It would be possible to do and it would make the car run red hot like you described. You can find the parts to do a rebuild at a parts yard pretty cheap.

One other thing is there water in the oil?? If so you have a blown head gasket.

And I beg to differ on the dex-cool statement. I had my bonny flushed out and put in the prestone antifreeze you can use with any color. My mechanic said the dex-cool is only good for turning to sludge in the radiator. Every one I have talked to about the dex-cool says the same thing.

My car is running great after the complete flush. Before the flush it was causing a slight leak at the TB. Just my two cents.


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Old 06-28-2005, 12:35 AM
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If they are warped.... Don't pay to have the heads milled, you can get performance onces on the car for less then that.
Old 06-28-2005, 02:00 AM
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I'm betting it overheated and the radiator cap didn't vent, causing the petcock to blow out under pressure.

My money would be on a failed water pump causing this to begin with, and that looks more likely considering how quickly it overheated today.

It also sounds like rod knock. Time to drop the oil pan.
Old 06-28-2005, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
I'm betting it overheated and the radiator cap didn't vent, causing the petcock to blow out under pressure.

My money would be on a failed water pump causing this to begin with, and that looks more likely considering how quickly it overheated today.

It also sounds like rod knock. Time to drop the oil pan.
wow STEVE, pay attention to your gauges next time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they are there for a reason
this whole situation could have prrobbaly been prevented if you did that? i overheated my car once driving on the freeway when the water pump blewi shut it down as soon as i seen the temp go above normal i knew something was wrong
Old 06-28-2005, 07:57 AM
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In talking with Steve last night he told me the story. Basically sounds like whatever happened the petcock blew (prolly WP like Bill said) then all the coolant leaked out.

Without water the temp sensor may not read until some water passes by. Either way sounds like he'* getting exhaust into the coolant which is causing it to heat up so quick and now with the knocking it'* smoked.

Steve is this your first kill?
Old 06-28-2005, 09:28 AM
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If the petcock blew, the ECT would have still showed an overheated condition. That'* why they put the sensors in the LIM.


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