backfire through intake, car stalls at idle - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-20-2005, 07:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
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Originally Posted by mkaake
hrm. i was thinking fuel pressure regulator myself. symptoms seem to be about right. try moving the key to the 'run' position, and then removing it and repeating about 4 times before you start. see if that helps.

just a feeling. anyhew, if the FPR is leaking into the intake, it would explain the boom, the random non-start issues, etc...
Thats also a possibility... And should be checked.... 207,000 is a lot of miles..
FPR wouldn't be causing this....My FPR is probably barely hangin in there...and my car doesn't do anything that he'* describing....And flooding the engine wouldn't cause the backfire....It'* timing, and I'm with JR'* first guess on this, seeing how timing is controled by the PCM....I think you're PCM is going bad.....IMO
i would say that since the key thing didn't help that it'* not the answer. remember, there was a recall on 98'* (i think it was 98'*?) for failed FPR'* that caused the car to backfire and destroy the upper intake manifold. so it'* something to keep in mind.

and the way to check it depends on the tools you have on hand. there'* about 3 or 4 ways, and in terms of the best ways to do it, we have...

1. check it with a pressure gage, report back and see if you're in the proper range.
2. remove the vacuum line from the FPR while it'* running. does any fuel leak out the end?
3. after the car has been sitting a good long while, use a screwdriver and press in the valve on the FPR - does any fuel spit out? (if you do this, be careful - if your FPR is good, you'll be getting a nice little spray of fuel).

but check out those plug wires for a cross fire. while it'* dark outside, take a spray bottle of water, and while the motor is running, spray a mist above the plug wires. if you get a light show, your wires need to be replaced.

but i'm still leaning more towards FPR than that, as it would seem that bad wires would make it bad all of the time, not just when cold or after sitting for a while.
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:13 PM   #12
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I thought that too, mkaake, but after a little sitting, things settle, get closer, etc.. and with a little driving they move around. My car was fine at idle, but as soon as I revved the engine it popped like hell, the airbox shook, and the car would drop to 600rpm [on the tach], and it would occasionally stall at that point. Or stumble for a minute. Took me a while to figure out the problem, being it as simple as it was.


-justin
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by opensourceguy
I thought that too, mkaake, but after a little sitting, things settle, get closer, etc.. and with a little driving they move around. My car was fine at idle, but as soon as I revved the engine it popped like H***, the airbox shook, and the car would drop to 600rpm [on the tach], and it would occasionally stall at that point. Or stumble for a minute. Took me a while to figure out the problem, being it as simple as it was.


-justin
and that'* all fine, but he doesn't have a problem starting the car back up when the car is warm - and if it was wires moving around because of the torque involved with starting the motor, it seems like it would happen every time, not just when it'* cold.

my vote is still fpr... but it can't hurt to check the wires...
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:07 PM   #14
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ill take a look at the wires later today. i have pressed in on that valve on the fuel line, and it has always squirted out a bit of fuel. ill try it tonight after work and see what happens. also this morning on the way to work, it kept dying in the morning commute. id have to constantly be looking at the tach while idling. when it dropped to around 700 or 800 rpm id have to give it a bit of gas or it would just die. it just kept wanting to go down to 500 and quit but i tried to keep the car alive, it died a few times durning the short 5 mile commute but usually i can keep it alive if i watch the tach constantly. and like i said there is no problem running when its above 1000 rpm, the rpms seem a little higher than usual, i noticed that when going 55 the rpms are at about 1750 when they used to be around 1200. and going 65 its a little over 2000. maybe thats just my transmission being old though, i dont know.
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:59 PM   #15
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try starting it in neutral when you have the chance. see what happens with that.
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:08 PM   #16
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i tried starting in neutral but that didnt help. also last night when i went out to test the valve on the fuel line i pressed it in but nothing came out. does that mean the fuel pressure regulator is bad?
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:10 PM   #17
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Yes.


-justin
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Old 01-22-2005, 01:29 AM   #18
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okay. so where is it, and how do i go about replacing it? thanks
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Old 01-23-2005, 09:22 AM   #19
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i figured it out... went to pep boys.. the fuel regulator cost $49.95. put it in, took about 5 minutes. i had to take out the fuel pump fuse and turn the engiine over to get rid of pressure in the line. but i got it installed and the car runs like its brand new now. thank you guys so much. turns out the computer and icm were good after all! i cant believe that little part was giving my car so much trouble.
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Old 01-23-2005, 12:17 PM   #20
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Try a junkyard for your airbox
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