1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Air Mix Valve Actuator - Stuck

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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 06:21 AM
  #11  
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Two possible actuators go into your vehicle *


#1

ACDELCO Part # 1571835 {#16124942} $53.79
ACTUATOR,TEMP VLV w/A/C AUTO CONTROL (C61) <-------look at your parts identification label for same code **



#2

ACDELCO Part # 1571923 {#16141822} $63.79
ACTUATOR,TEMP VLV w/A/C FRT AUTO/AUX CONT (CJ2) <-------look at your parts identification label for same code

Top view


Bottom view


* very well trusted vendor > RockAuto Auto Parts


** parts identification label location varies from car to car. You may find it either on the inside of your glove box door, or on top of your spare tire cover. White label black letters.

Last edited by Toddster; Dec 7, 2009 at 06:39 AM.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 06:40 AM
  #12  
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https://www.gmforum.com/t274213/

The above link will show many useful photos on replacing an actuator. Member had a 97 Buick. Very similar car to yours.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:22 AM
  #13  
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Hey Toddster! I didn't even realize you posted. Thanks for the information.

The only thing, though, is that the actuator I'm replacing is at the bottom of the programmer. The one in the pics in the link that you posted works fine in my car (a bit squeaky, but works fine). The one I need replaced is at the very bottom of the programmer. But the pictures are very good at showing where to go to get to it.

Apparently, the bottom actuator that I need is quite different from the top actuator. In the pictures, you can see a little white plastic worm that drives the gears. Well, on the bottom one, it'* all in one housing (motor/gears) with a little black lever out the bottom...

I took it out yesterday to look around. I took pictures so I guess I'll just have to make a how-to on removing the programmer and the motor. The motor would only work if I gave it a nudge in the right direction... So, since it'* the winter now, I have the motor positioned toward full hot and I unplugged it inside the programmer.

Fortunately, I found a replacement on eBay. RockAuto had it, but they wanted $80. yeah right!

Thanks Again,
Nick

Last edited by NTL1991; Dec 12, 2009 at 12:26 AM.
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