Hi, I'm a new member and have exactly the problems with my AC as described in this post. Can someone explain why I can't access this link?
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ghlight=nipple

Thx
Allan R

Basically because the forum changed names once and some links didn't take it well.

Here'* the post you want.
https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...=vents&page=11

You may notice I linked you to page 11. That'* the page where the magic happens. Post #104

Here'* the link that it refers to and that you want.
http://www.imcool.com/articles/airco...acuum_line.htm

for the link. It'* the same one I found looking for vacuum line connectors. Great minds.....

Any of you notice if the problem with automatic air also caused a small vacuum leak that affected the idle speed? It'* not much, but my car would normally run at about 700-710 rpm in drive before this problem with the AC. Now it drops down to 650-660. I originally thought that it was a defective IAC but it wasn't . I pulled the IAC and checked it with my multimeter and got the proper resistance across the pins. It was good, but I decided to replace it with a new one since the car has close to 280,000 on it.

When you cut the vacuum connector out of the programmer (which seems like a smart idea to me since it'* the thing that seems to cause the problems), what do you use to connect those tiny 1/8 lines without leaking? Is there a special connector I can get? I can always get a newer programmer out of a donor at the wrecker pretty cheap, but would still need a way to connect those darn lines. Any help there? Keep in mind I'm up in Canada and don't have some of the outlets guys in the US have.

Ok Guys, I need some help. My car is a 1995 Olds Regency Elite with automatic air. It uses the same programmer as most full size Buick and Pontiacs with the same features (including sun load sensor) The car was defaulting to defrost regularly and only occasionally would it work properly (usually first thing in the morning for about 10 minutes) I followed the descriptions listed in the repair procedure. When I got the programmer out of it'* slot I took off the female end of the connector (BTW its not 8 mm as stated, it'* either 9/32 or 7 mm - both are the same) with a deep socket. The connector was just fine - nice and hard. Thought it might just be the programmer. So I installed a programmer out of a 1996 Olds LSS 88. Everything re-connected and fired up the car. The programmer moved the belcrank back and forth to seated positions. I called for AC - Nothing happened. Then I noticed the AC electronic panel was flashing 3 dashes across the screen then it would go out. It just keeps repeating this pattern. Also the dash unit is making a clicking noise. According the the menu screens, the date is not available but all other functions are there but won't reset. The car was run for more than 5 minutes. Nothing has happened to make the AC work. What is likely the problem here?? I don't want to take this into a shop if I don't have to. And now my car won't even blow cool air, it'* blowing hot all the time....You can probably tell that I'm frustrated......

Had to walk away from Project Agony for awhile. I reviewed everything that I did and could have screwed up. Bottom line: did it all right.

So, I went back out to the car, took out the replacement programmer, and swapped in the old one. Once you get the hang of how to do this, it was less than 20 minutes from start to finish - not bad. Course that doesn't include taking out the valences and glove box. They were still out.

Anyway, fired it up. Now the AC control panel works the way it'* supposed to. The AC was blowing nice cold air but not with good volume so I cycled it through the upper/bilevel/defrost/lower several times. The selector worked fine but still low air circulation. Then I pressed the off button, waited 5 seconds and pressed auto on. Same old BS. Cold air flowing through the defrost even with other positions selected. Called an AC shop and asked them WTH it could be. Bring it in Tuesday and for $50.00 we'll tell you was the reply. (He says the 50 will go towards the cost of any repairs it needs). There HAS to be something that'* wonky and still easy to fix.

NOTE: when the AC was selected to Auto ON, the venting sounded like it was trapped inside the dash and not coming out anywhere....Anyone???? I'm at the stage that I'm ready to give this car to the first person stupid enough to look at it. Heck, I might even advertise it and offer someone to pay to take it away.

Ok, I solved this problem.
The AC shop told me the programmer was shot. I found one that came out of a 94 Regency Elite with digital dash. Installed it. It works perfectly. Air flow goes where its supposed to.

Question: I thought about cleaning the old programmer and solenoids using electrical contact cleaner and blowing it out with compressed air afterwards. Then I read the can of cleaner instructions and it says not to use on circuit boards. Anyone know why not?

Super. On the link I had earlier in this thread there is a part about replacing the nipples in the programmer as they will collapse. Most likely, that'* what was keeping yours from putting the air in the correct place.

Bill,
Yes, I read your post on that problem, and the solution for bypassing the connection. That'* not what it was though. I took my programmer out and the nipples were still hard plastic. (I'm saving the old connector because it'* really easy to take the programmer apart and access stuff). My problem was one of the solenoids probably had a weak coil. It would periodically work, then quit. That also causes a default to defrost. The new programmer had good stiff plastic connectors.

The only problem I've run into has been very minor. The electronic cluster somehow does not advance the date on a 24 hour clock. If I set the date for today, tomorrow the cluster will display code 19, Date not found. I just hit reset and its good for the rest of the day. Did you run into anything like this? Like I said it'* a really minor thing in my books since I'm way more concerned about the AC working and getting other info from the on board monitoring system.

Ahhhh sorry for the assumption. It sounded from your post that the replacement was the fix, and the nipples are in the part that'* typically replaced from my understanding.

Glad you got it fixed up.

No problem. You are right, the nipples are part of a sub assembly that mounts to the programmer. Fairly easy to remove if necessary. When I was at the wreckers, I did practice taking apart a few just to see how they come apart. I did run into a few with the spongy nipples like what you described, and I left them behind since they would be useless. It'* kind of strange, the nipples turn soft and the rest of the plastic base was ok. But it was all molded from the same material. Anyway, you're right. It'* fixed and been good as new. Lately it'* been 80-85 with a fair amount of humidity and the AC is blowing nice and cold through the vents where I really need it.

Thanks for your support and helpful suggestions.