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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-21-2008, 12:00 AM   #1
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Unhappy Aaarrrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!!

""""Prepare to remove crossover pipe Removal of the exhaust crossover pipe is optional. Beware! Attempting to remove a crossover pipe with very badly rusted bolts can result in the bolts breaking requiring significant additional work to replace them"""".

So I did this, I was going slow and using PB blast,

Spray, let soak 15 min, try repeat go back and forth with the bolt

It was going great the last lower bolt THEN SNAP

How do I fix the broken bolt?????????????????

Regards,
James
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:05 AM   #2
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Sorry to say your best bet is to pull the manifold and drill it out. You might, and I say MIGHT get it out with a easy out. More then likely you will have to drill and tap. Which one was it, the front or the back? I just did a write up on installing headers, and that information would be helpful in removing the manifold. If you need it let me know and I'll open it for the public early.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:19 AM   #3
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It was the back lower their is almost an inch sticking out the back and it is fluch with the front of the mating plate. I would appreciate any info.

Regards,

James






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Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
Sorry to say your best bet is to pull the manifold and drill it out. You might, and I say MIGHT get it out with a easy out. More then likely you will have to drill and tap. Which one was it, the front or the back? I just did a write up on installing headers, and that information would be helpful in removing the manifold. If you need it let me know and I'll open it for the public early.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:26 AM   #4
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Sorry to hear that, man. Like Danthurs says it a big "might". I snapped an exhaust bolt and tried the easy out, way out. What a pain!!! I ended up snapping the hardened easy out in the hole I drilled and it was a pain deserving many expletives to drill it AND the snapped bolt out.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:36 AM   #5
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Alright, I posted it in the open, it should be ready for viewing.

https://www.gmforum.com/t277839/#post1353414

Now this is for headers but the basics are the same. Go down to the rear manifold section and follow along. Follow each step and it will be easy. figure about a hour out, and a hour in. Plus what ever time you need to fix the problem. don't skip any steps on the rear manifold or many will hear words you don't want them to hear. I've done several rear manifolds and I've gotten it down pretty smooth. Chances are, you wont get the stud out. I suggest drilling it out and use a bolt.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:42 AM   #6
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hear are some images of the disaster.
Attached Thumbnails
Aaarrrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!!-rear-crossover-bolts.jpg   Aaarrrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!!-rear-manifold-flange-broken-bolt.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:45 AM   #7
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I've seen that to many times. And I'll see it again soon. I'm installing a set of PEMs for a member soon. That'* the manifold with the nut welded on right? Just drill it out, or over size it and tap. Can't remember teh tap size for that off the top of my head, but the rear one is metric.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:56 AM   #8
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I think I am going to try and drill it out and tap it first, it that don't work I will drill it and install a bolt.

Does that sound plausible?

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James
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:59 AM   #9
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I will tell you, I would not have removed the crossover but the small 8mm bolt holding the upper brace to the TB will not come out, it is not really 8mm and it has got a chamfer of about 8 degrees.
I can't get any of my sockets to fit it with out slipping.

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James
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:03 AM   #10
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Your plan sounds like a good one. I've done that very same thing in the past. Just make sure you use the correct tap.
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