when my truck needed a filter it was like 58 but if you reved the engine it went down to 53.

you can get the pump for fairly cheap from rockauto, if the car is from a rusty area like mine the metal lines on the sender are rusted to crap. if you got to buy that its another 60-80 bucks and the tubes for the filler have to be good to or you will get evap codes when its not sealed up perfect

I am really hoping it is simply a plugged up fuel filter. This car is at a point (due to mileage and the fact that it is a total POS) that if it is a fuel pump, it really isn't worth fixing...

A failing crank shaft position sensor is an intermittent issue. It will run fine most of the time, and then shut your engine down like you flipped a switch. When it runs, you get full spark. When it doesn't, it is because there is no spark at all. In other words, performance will be all or nothing. You stated that when the car won't start you are getting spark. If that is true, the problem absolutely is not the crank shaft position sensor.

Roy, you clearly are on the "Eh Team"!

Thanks for your input! You saved me a bugger or a project (removing harmonic balance to get at the crank position sensor).

I'll change the fuel filter tonight to see what that does to the fuel pressure. There is a good chance that due to the overall neglect of this car it is really clogged up.

My sense is that changing a fuel pump on this car would be a booger of a job and relatively expensive given the condition of it... Hopefully I will not have to go there.

Thanks again for the input. I really appreciate it.

You may want to start soaking the fuel filter connectors in a "break free" type chemical. if your Bonnie is from up north, the connectors may have a lot of corrosion. Start spraying it now, by tonight may make a difference in loosing the fuel filter connectors.

Absolutely right. Soak the connections with a good parting oil for at least a day before trying to crack them open.

Have you removed the MAF sensor, and cleaned its thermistors with MAF cleaner?
If not, it would not hurt to do so, and while you are at it see if the tip to the MAF sensor comes off easily, do not tug on it, but give it a little touch (the plastic tip, not thermistors) and see if it falls off, if so it could be spinning, or turned to block airflow over the thermistors, if that happens the PCM will not command fuel, and it will not start.
That may not be your issue, but it is easy to check, so I figured I'd suggest checking it just in case.

While your fuel pressure is low, I cannot see it not having enough fuel to at least start and idle, mine was 34psi and still ran decently, but I had it replaced because I did not know my MAF tip had came loose and blocked the thermistors from reading the airflow.

William, thanks for the input. The MAF could very well be dirty. The tube leading to it from the airbox was not tight so the MAF was getting unfiltered air. I think I will try cleaning it first - then try to start the car. If that doesn't work, then I will move to the fuel filter and check fuel pressure again.

Great input from all. I need to keep this car running for the kid for another few months. If they had the money, this heap would have been replaced years ago...

I pulled what I think is the MAF sensor from the car and used MAF cleaner on it. On the Bonneville there is a tube that runs from the airbox to the throttle body. I removed that tube. There is a sensor in the tube which I removed and cleaned. I can't tell if the sensor is good or bad by looking at it. Is there a way to tell if it is functional or not? Anyway, I cleaned it. Car turns over but will not fire at all unless I use starter fluid - then it runs for a few seconds and dies. I'm going to try the fuel filter. Will check in after I've done that and retested fuel pressure.