98 SE Wont start if sits for 20-30 minutes - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-29-2007, 10:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The diagnostics in the FSM point you toward a fuel pump being weak. If there is no fuel in the vacuum line for the FPR and it'* been changed already it may be the pump.

With your mileage..do you know if the pump has ever been replaced?
I was hoping you wouldn't say that :( Car has 182,XXX miles. No idea if it has been changed. Previous owner did do alot of upkeep...new swaybar endlinks, new UIM and LIM, got rid of dex-poo, I,m sure more because I can tell the exhaust has been out, and all of the injectors and coils are numbered 1-6. There is even an extra ground for the coils...no idea what that is about.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:52 PM   #12
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Fuel pressure problems can be tough to diagnose sometimes (FPR, check valve, pump, filter, etc), and you get in a tight spot having to assume that the recalled FPR is good. Having no change when the vac line is removed, I'd have to agree with Boosty and say you're seeing the max your pump can put out.

Old fuel pumps sometimes get weaker as they get hot during the day on a drive. This causes inefficiencies. If you trust your gauge, that'* some pretty low numbers. It might be time to swap it.

Looks like you're in KY, so there isn't much BC personal help there. Dropping the tank and doing the pump isn't too big of a deal. You need the pump and a new tank seal. Run the tank as low as possible, and have a friend ready to help. New tank bolts (and possibly straps) may be needed depending on your rust level.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:21 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by willwren
Fuel pressure problems can be tough to diagnose sometimes (FPR, check valve, pump, filter, etc), and you get in a tight spot having to assume that the recalled FPR is good. Having no change when the vac line is removed, I'd have to agree with Boosty and say you're seeing the max your pump can put out.

Old fuel pumps sometimes get weaker as they get hot during the day on a drive. This causes inefficiencies. If you trust your gauge, that'* some pretty low numbers. It might be time to swap it.

Looks like you're in KY, so there isn't much BC personal help there. Dropping the tank and doing the pump isn't too big of a deal. You need the pump and a new tank seal. Run the tank as low as possible, and have a friend ready to help. New tank bolts (and possibly straps) may be needed depending on your rust level.
I'm not sure if I trust the gauge 100% (it'* from Harbor Freight) so I will have to borrow my friends and see if they match. I never have an drive-ability issues, just the starting. Filter was replaced about 40K ago. Oddly enough, I NEVER hear the fuel pump prime. Either I am deaf, or it is super quiet. I am actually located in Ohio...Bowling Green, OH I'm not too worried about the fuel pump ordeal, I'm in the middle of putting a 383 and T56 in my Sonoma, so I'm not worried about my abilities too much. It is just a hell of alot easier to swap out a FPR than a pump Any suggestions on the best place to get a pump (price-wise) and I'm assuming stick with the Delco?
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