1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

'96-'99 Belt Change....(pics and tutorial)

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 05:10 PM
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Default '96-'99 Belt Change....(pics and tutorial)

Since I've had mine up in the air 3 times in the last 2 days I figured I may as well take some pics and offer a little instruction.

First jack the car up at the notches in the bottom of the frame near the door
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Support the car so it doesn't fall while you're under it.the best place for this is the bushing right in front of the jack notches. Since I didn't have a good set of jack stands,I had to use a set of "Redneck jack stands"
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Remove the wheel and pull the front piece of the fender well to gain access to the lower motor mount bolt
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You'll have to raise the motor just a little so,if you don't have a floor jack,you can use the jack out of the trunk. Use a piece of 2x4 to distrubute the weight and jack from under the oil pan.
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Looking from the bottom as yoy lay on your back,you'll see these 2 bolts. They can be loosened with a 15mm combination wrench. No need to take them all the way out.
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Loosen the lower motor mount bolt and remove it. If you don't have any torx sockets,this can be removed with a 5/16 12 pt socket on a 1/4" drive


Loosen the upper torque axis bolts. These are 15mm. You'll need an extension to have enough room to loosen these.
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Remove the upper motor mount bolt. You have to do this in order to allow the motor to move enough for the spacer that is behind the lower motor mount bolt enough room to slip out


You can now jack the motor enough to see it move and slide the spacer out from behind the motor mount

You can use a 1/4" allen wrench to help move the tensioner pulley enough to remove the belt.
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The hard part is done now,just slide the belt out through the bottom past the motor mount and remember the way it was when you pulled it out and put it back in the same way. You'll have to move the motor up and down a little with the jack to reposition the holes to get the bolts back in.

It took me a whlle to do this the first time but it only took me about 20-40 min this morning,not including having to WALK to Advance to get the right belt that I needed since the car was up in the air.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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Thanks, time for my belt change too. this will come in most usefull. I've got to stop spending so much time playing with my Jeep.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 05:29 PM
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Thanks for the pics..............they will be very helpful to me and many other members! So, how is the new belt?
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Thanks for the pics..............they will be very helpful to me and many other members! So, how is the new belt?
No problem,just giving something back to the club.

Still got a little slop,don't know if they make a 710 or not, I dunno,that may be a tad too short
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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OMG that is the hardest way...isn't it?

I jacked up..used a stand (like the rednecks)
pulled the tire and plastic
went to remove the bottom torque motor mount nut..whole stud came out.
if it hadn't I would have pulled it
Slide sleeve out (notice..I didn't loosen the other bolts or jack motor)
Slide old belt out..new in
Put stud and nut back in place..
Plastic and tire back on
let car down.
Finish routing belt
(I used a torque socket on a 12-18" 3/8 drive ratchet)
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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This came at a good time, as I was thinking about changing the belt yesterday and I don't want to pay pepboys for an easy job. Great pictures. DQ
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
OMG that is the hardest way...isn't it?

I jacked up..used a stand (like the rednecks)
pulled the tire and plastic
went to remove the bottom torque motor mount nut..whole stud came out.
if it hadn't I would have pulled it
Slide sleeve out (notice..I didn't loosen the other bolts or jack motor)
Slide old belt out..new in
Put stud and nut back in place..
Plastic and tire back on
let car down.
Finish routing belt
(I used a torque socket on a 12-18" 3/8 drive ratchet)

There were several wires in the way of trying to just pull the spacer out.
So,I had to do it like this to get the spacer out.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 06:15 AM
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Ohhhh the wires. I remember. When the stud came out w/the nut the spacer nearly jumped out of mine.

Sounds like you did it the normal way and I was super lucky.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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Default wires

Hope my wires arn't in the way. I just plan on pulling the spacer out and thats it.
Why can't you reach down and get it from atop the fender?
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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Default Re: wires

Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
Hope my wires arn't in the way. I just plan on pulling the spacer out and thats it.
Why can't you reach down and get it from atop the fender?
It would be tough to see, give it a try and let us know. The wiring is right there..I gently persuaded it to move enough.
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